Note: I added another page under the "Projects" page that should allow smart phone and iPad users to access the separate projects via hyperlinks. I don't know why but it seems that smart phones can't access the drop down menus.
The mast is assmbled. It was great to see it put together even if we had to pull it apart again for transport to the boat yard.Next, we installed the three part splicing sleeve in the lower half of the spar. We used 6mm x 16mm SS flat head screws (about 1/4" x 5/8") to fasten the splice. RQ, the spar builder, explained that he liked the 6mm for this application due to the slightly larger thread count and increased thread strength. After installing the three sleeves in the lower half we slide the upper section onto the side of the sleeves. It went on perfect. When we installed the other fasteners the spar was drawn up tight, flush, and straight. I was very impressed with the fit.
Transporting a mast, building a mast, restoring a sailboat, Cape Dory 36.We built the mast cradle in three sections and strapped it down to the boat trailer.Transporting a sailboat mast.We transported the spar sections without fanfare. The long trailer was key. Fate smiled on us. No flats and no tickets.
We placed the mast cradle and spar sections in the boat shed and waited for Hurricane Arthur.18 June 2014Plenty of work but not a lot to show for it. The priority has been to complete the painting and varnishing of the bowsprit and and to bed the bowroller assembly. I test fit the roller assembly and simply had to mount the bowsprit on the Far Reach to see what it looked like. Next, I removed it, uninstalled the hardware, added a final coat of paint, and then bedded the bow roller assembly. I used dophinite so that the roller assembly could be removed with minamal fuss. I was going to use some 3M 4000 around the bolt holes but became concerned that they might be hard to remove since there is not much to grab to pull the bolts. And, because the two parts of the assembly are "spun-on" to the double ended threaded foward bolt you can't pull the castings off with out first removing the aft two bolts. Anyway, it should be farily simply to remove the roller assembly when necessary and that ended up being the higher priority. There are more pictures in the gallery below.
After clamping the bow roller assembly together I removed it and taped off the back of the hardware with clear packing tape. I applied some neat epoxy to selected spots that had some voids under the hardware since the part that lays against the bowsprit is not perfectly flat. I also applied some neat epoxy to the tip of the bowsprit where the cranze iron is positioned. Then, I mixed up some West Systems epoxy and thickened it with 404 High Density filler and a bit of colloidal silica. I applied it to the side of the bowsprit and reinstalled the bow roller assembly tightening it down squeezing out the epoxy. I cleaned up the squeeze out, put it back in the cup, and mixed in some douglas fir sawdust I collected from by belt sander dust bag to tint the color. I applied it to the front of the bowsprit and pushed the cranze iron into position. I cleaned up the squeeze out. I let the whole thing sit and cure for about two hours. While it was still rubbery, I tapped off the cranze iron with a dead blow hammer and removed the bow roller assembly. By doing this, I was able to fill any voids under the hardware which will still require bedding compound applied before the final install but now eliminates any unwanted gaps. Having smooth surfaces and a tight fit also reduces stress to the sprit when it is under load by ensureing a better fit. I finished off the day by installing a 1/4" thick G10 plate to the bottom of the bowsprit that I recessed with my router a few days ago. I undercut the G10 plate making it slightly smaller around the edges to create channels for any water that gets into the heel to drain out a hole I have yet to drill in the back of the bronze heel cup. Also the bottom of the bowsprit will be elevated in the socket and only the G10 will make contact with the bottom of the heel cup. In other words, the G10 plate will sit on any dampness on the bottom of the heel cup vice the bottom of the wood bowsprit and there are channels for water to flow around it. I used 3M 5200 to glue the G10 to the Doug Fir because I wanted there to be some flexibility in the adhesive should the doug fir expand and contract. The next step will be to conduct final fit of the sprit to the heel cup, conduct final sanding, and then paint and varnish the sprit.