Note: I added another page under the "Projects" page that should allow smart phone and iPad users to access the separate projects via hyperlinks. I don't know why but it seems that smart phones can't access the drop down menus.
Today, I visited World Timber where I picked up the Bird’s Eye Maple I will use to make the raised panels. Matt and his gang always provide great help to me. I bought twice the required amount of wood as I wanted to get just what I wanted and I knew that I would be able to use the left over wood for other projects. The majority of the wood in the boat is African Mahogany with a little ash, however, the Bird's Eye Maple should really "pop" against the mahogany. The raised panels should add an elegant touch to the interior. I have made panel doors before but never solid wood raised panels. This should be an interesting project.
I also spent a little time today cutting some test bead and cove that I intend to incorporate around all the cabinet door openings.
Tomorrow I will start in earnest and with some luck I should have this project more or less accomplished in the next two weeks.
I admit I have wasted some time the last week wandering around trying to get reoriented on the next project. I did not know whether to start on the cabinet doors or finish off the galley shelving. It did not help that the winter "plague" that we have managed to avoid the last three years really walloped us this past week. Everyone got sick. But, we are on the mend now. Finally, I started working on shelving for the galley (below the galley counter top) and the port side locker. I also glued up the mahogany staving for the divider (and applied five coats of varnish to it) that will support the dish rack above the galley counter top. This evening I glued and screwed the fiddle to the portside galley counter top. Tomorrow I'll install the galley counter top and probably start work on the dish rack.
The flange. That darn flange was going to be a problem. This particular sink was designed to be either a drop in or under-mount. But, the flange lip was in the way of the different clamps ideas I was working with. What to do? I turned the sink upside down, clamped it in place and took my 4 ½” Makita high speed grinder with a heavy grinding wheel in it and just ground the downward turning lip off. It took about 30 minutes and made a hell of a racket. But, it came out looking fine. Tim Lackey gave me some tips on a bracket. I used some scrap teak and cut them to length. I drilled a ¼” hole in each end. With the sink clamped in place I flipped it upside down and made marks on the bottom. I used a 13/64” bit with a stop collar and drilled down through the teak cleat into the underside of the countertop. Then, I tapped the holes for ¼” bolts. I test fit the set up. I taped off the edge of the sink cut out and the sink as well with 3M 233 tape. I wiped the sink flange down with some acetone as well as the area on the counter top that would get bedded. I had a half tube of Boat Life white polysulfide on hand so I used it. I wanted to avoid silicone if possible plus the polysulfide would also provide some adhesive properties as well. I applied a thick bead and using the black sharpie marker outline of the sink flange on the under side of the counter I lowered the sink into position. I attached the cleats and snugged down the fasteners getting squeeze out all the way around. I scraped up the excess caulk then pulled the tape. There was no mess and a very clean line. In fact, with the counter an off white the caulk is barely visible. I left it to cure.
A couple of days ago I laminated two layers of 1” thick Burmese teak together with Aerodux 185, which is a cold weather resorcinol adhesive. After it cured, I traced the foot print of the kerosene navigation lights onto the pads and took the two teak blocks over to my friend’s house where he has a band saw. I cut the pattern out with a 5 degree bevel. I think 8-10 degrees would have looked better but, again, the amount of room I had limited my options. As it is, a five degree bevel softened the edges quite a bit. Next, took the flat bottomed pads up to the boat and blocked them so they were level on top. I used a compass to scribe a line following the camber of the cabin top onto the sides of the teak pads. Then, I used double-sided tape to clamp the pads upside down to a table top and with a power hand planer carefully cut away the excess teak till I was about ¼” from the scribed line. Then, I used my smoothing plane to hand plane them right to the line. I test fit them a couple of times to make sure all was well. Satisfied, I hit the bottom with a belt sander to smooth everything out—not really necessary as the hand planed bottom was very smooth. While planing the bottom I used the resorcinol glue line as a reference point to making sure the bottom was flat. If the line curves, then the slope is not even across the bottom. I also checked for flatness with a straight edge. With the slope cut in the pads I used a ¼” round-over bit and a router to turn the edges. I cut the pads a little short intentionally so there is a gap between the bronze bracket and the pad to prevent water from collecting there. I have not mounted the pads yet. In the photo they are held in place with double sided tape.
The teak pads for the navigation lights will be bedded with polysulfide. When the temps warm up in the next week or so, I will drill down through the pad into the deck. I’ll then over-drill the hole in the deck, same as I did for the bronze chock brackets, fill with epoxy, tap, and then insert a 1/” threaded bolt. Once they are mounted I will attach a vertical piece of bronze or copper strip several inches long and about an inch wide, screwed to the lower edge of the teak chock that the slot in the lantern will slide over and hold it in place. I’ll also attach a bronze cleat to each chock so the dinghy can be properly secured.