Next, I went back to work on the trim ring. As detailed in a previous post, I cut the trim ring from the square lamination I made on a band saw. Now I needed to cut a 4 3/4" hole through the trim ring for the deck flange to plug into. I hate buying one time tools. But there was no reasonable way around it. I bought a Lenox 4 3/4" hole saw. I saved a few dollars as it came without the arbor but since all my other hole saws are Lenox I was able to use the arbor from one of them. I decided I needed to cut the hole before I beveled the trim ring to match the deck. It was the only way to ensure it would be vertical. It took a while but I was able to cut it on my bench top drill press. First I drilled a 1/4" hole al the way through the center and out the other side. Then I used the hole saw to cut half way through the plug--all the way to the bottom of the hole saw. I flipped the plug over and using the 1/4" hole as a guide I cut back through all the way to the bottom of the hole saw which just made it through. A perfect hole. Next, I took the trim ring up to the boat and used some wood scraps to prop the outside edge up so that it was level on top. I then scribed around it with a compass. I used a power planer to cut most of the excess away. Then, I used a block plane and spoke shave to trim to the scribed line. It fit perfect. I was pleased. It made me realize how much I have learned during the rebuild as the did not require days of research and planning . . . it took maybe 45 min. Next, I took the hole saw up to the boat and after taping off the area I needed to cut through (to protect the gelcoat) I cut a matching 4 3/4" hole through the cabin top. I checked the fit of the trim ring over the hole. They lined up perfectly. I finished up the day by rounding over the top and inside edge of the trim ring with the router. Next day, I cut a caulking grove in the bottom of the trim ring to provide a place for caulk to lay and not get completely squeezed out. I developed a couple of options for securing the trim ring to the cabin top. In the end I went with the simplest of the options as suggested by someone I trust. I used 3M 4000UV and no fasteners. 3M 4000 has about the same adhesive capability as 4200 but with more UV protection. I dug out the balsa core in the deck around the hole I cut the day before. I only needed to cut back about 1/4" since there would be no fasteners penetrating the deck. I coated the balsa with unthickend epoxy and followed with epoxy thickened with cabo-sil. After it was hard taped off the hole and trim ring and I applied 3M 4000 to the bottom of the trim ring and pressed it into position. I used a "Dap Cap" to clean up the excess, removed the tape that protected the teak trim ring, and cleaned up the excess with alcohol.