Installing Deck Hardware
-Dinghy Chocks-Chainplates-Windlass/Ground Tackle Hardware-Cockpit Lockers-Cockpit Seat Scuppers-Deck Hatches-Cockpit Coaming-Winch Bases-Winches-Winch Cleats-Richie BN 202 Navigator Compass-Dyneema Life Lines-Boom Gallows
This afternoon, UPS came by and delivered the bronze dinghy chocks Port Townsend Foundry cast for me. Very nice. I think they look great. For the near term I'll set them aside, but later ,when I install them, I'll cut a piece of teak or Iroko to fit into the slot and I'll shape the upper end to support the gunwale of the inverted dinghy. I won't through bolt them to the cabin top. Instead I'll drill out a larger hole, fill with epoxy and then tap them for flat head machine bolts. If we ever ship green water and, God forbid, it tears the dinghy off I don't want the cabin top to go with it. I'd rather lose just the dinghy. Also, if they are tapped into the epoxy I can remove and rebed this hardware without removing the overhead liner. Much, much, easier.
Dinghy Chalks
So, now is the time to install the bronze brackets for the dinghy chocks. If you have been a long time reader of this website then you know I have attempted to eliminate as many holes as possible that that pass all the way through the deck. As such, I did not want to through bolt the dinghy chock brackets either . . . for three reasons: first, I did not want any holes to pass through the deck that could potentially leak; second, If I through bolted the brackets and the Far Reach were swept by green water the dinghy might well be ripped off the boat and large chucks of the cabin top with it, and third, I can remove and rebed the brackets without removing the headliner. So, I decided to drill oversize holes, fill with epoxy, and tap them as "blind" holes. A "blind" hole is one that bottoms out without passing all the way through the other side. If water gets past the bedding compound and into the threaded hole it has no path to gain access into the interior of the boat. Anyway, the idea is if the dinghy is stressed to the point of being ripped off the cabin top I would prefer to have as little of the deck go with it as possible and tapped holes should do that. However, the deck is only about 1" thick and I wanted more material to tap into. The solution was to position the brackets in line with the dougfir plywood cleats I installed as part of the overhead panel and insulation system. To make sure I was drilling in the right place I removed the panels so I could measure precisely. Though a little tricky Gayle and were able to get the 9' Fatty Knees dinghy from its dolly onto the cabin top with only a little difficulty but, more importantly, no drama. Next, I moved the dinghy around till I got it aligned and then blocked it level. I had the dinghy chock brackets cast at Port Townsend Foundry last year. I played around with them for a while with some wood scrap to see where they needed to be positioned. The challenge was the offset companionway hatch left little room on the starboard side for the chocks. The best solution I could come up with required the bracket to overlap the teak companionway rail. To do this the bracket would need to be raised two inches to be even with the top of the rail. I did not want to mess with the rail but it was the best solution. I started by scribing the complex curve of the rail onto a piece of door skin plywood. Then, I trimmed it till it fit. Next, I traced the pattern on to a scrap piece of 2x4 and shaped it to see that I would be able to make it fit properly. Good to go. Next, I took 60" long, 6" wide, 8/4 piece of teak I have been saving for two years just for this project. I ran it across the joiner and then through the planer to make it square. I came up with my best estimate for the dimension of the wood supports (the actual chocks) that would be bolted into the brackets and the dinghy's gunwale would eventually rest on. I had just enough extra for the 2" tall, 2 1/4" wide base. I cut the sections and then used my previous template to trace the pattern onto this block of wood. It took about 45 min to trim the block to shape mostly with my cabinet maker's rasp. I was pleased with the fit. Next, I used double sided tape to hold the base in place and made a little jig to sit on top of the base to make the router flush with the top of the companionway rail. I traced the end of the bracket onto the companionway rail then oh so carefully used the laminate trimmer with a small straight cut router bit to route out the wood. I was sweating bullets but it went fine. I was very careful and made about a half dozen passes each time lowering the bit until I got to the depth I wanted. I checked for fit. Very good. Next, I laid the bracket on top of the base and marked the holes. I drilled 1/4" holes through the block with my drill press then used a hand drill to score the deck using the holes in the block as a guide. I used a 3/4" fostner bit to drill down through the deck and into but not all the way through the dougfir ply. cleats below I was able to drill 1 3/4" down which is plenty of depth for a strong tapped hole. The oversize hole will be filled with epoxy then a smaller hole drilled into it and tapped. The technique prevents water from gaining access into the vulnerable balsa core in the cabin top. It was to late to do much more other than mark the location for the other brackets. With a cold front coming through I will not be able to pour the epoxy for a few days. All in all, a good day.
Below:
1. After scribing the base to fit properly I used a home-made jig and a laminate router to recess the companionway hatch rail flush with the base.
2. I test fit the parts. I will round over the the edges and trim the base a little more before I install it.
3. I drilled two 1/4" holes through the teak base and then drilled out the deck with a 3/4" fostner bit.
4. I drilled down through the Doug Fir cleats but not through them. This will give me more depth for a longer bolt.
5. I'll keep working on the this project to I get the brackets installed. Then I can remove the dinghy.
I finished drilling out the holes for the dinghy chock brackets. After drilling them out with the 3/4" fostner bit, I very slightly undercut the balsa core so the plug could not simply pull out. Normally, I would dig out the balsa core a 1/2" or so but this time I only removed about 1/8" under the top skin of the deck. I wetted out the balsa core with unthickend epoxy and then used a large syringe to fill the cavity with slightly thickened "soupy" epoxy. I used 404 thickener instead of my normal 406 because the West System tech rep stated 404 was much better at dissipating the heat that can build to a "cook off" if you are filling a large void. Because the deck has a lot of camber I could not fill the hole flush as it would run out. If I made the epoxy too think it would be hard to ensure the hole was completely filled and without air bubbles. So, I filled it to just level with the lower edge. I left it till it was firm but still tacky then topped it off epoxy thickened to a non-sag consistency and used a squeegee to smooth it flush with the deck. Then, I left it over night to cure. The temperatures are dropping here tonight so I may let it continue to cure tomorrow before tap it for the bolts
I filled the holes in two stages with thickened epoxy. The first fill was with very thin epoxy to fill the voids. Then, after it began to cure I added some thicker epoxy to fair it flush with the deck.
17 Jan 13Soon, I will start installing the mahogany trim. Once I do that it will be more difficult to remove the overhead panels. So, now is the time to install the bronze brackets for the dinghy chocks. If you have been a long time reader of this website then you know I have attempted to eliminate as many holes as possible that that pass all the way through the deck. As such, I did not want to through bolt the dinghy chock brackets either . . . for two reasons: first, I did not want any holes to pass through the deck that could potentially leak; and second, If I through bolted the brackets and the Far Reach were swept by green water the dinghy might well be ripped off the boat and large chucks of the cabin top with it. So, I decided to drill oversize holes, fill with epoxy, and tap them as "blind" holes. A "blind" hole is one that bottoms out without passing all the way through the other side. If water gets past the bedding compound and into the threaded hole it has no path to gain access into the interior of the boat. Anyway, the idea is if the dinghy is stressed to the point of being ripped off the cabin top I would prefer to have as little of the deck go with it as possible and tapped holes should do that. However, the deck is only about 1" thick and I wanted more material to tap into. The solution was to position the brackets in line with the dougfir plywood cleats I installed as part of the overhead panel and insulation system. To make sure I was drilling in the right place I removed the panels so I could measure precisely. Though a little tricky Gayle and were able to get the 9' Fatty Knees dinghy from its dolly onto the cabin top with only a little difficulty but, more importantly, no drama. Next, I moved the dinghy around till I got it aligned and then blocked it level. I had the dinghy chock brackets cast at Port Townsend Foundry last year. I played around with them for a while with some wood scrap to see where they needed to be positioned. The challenge was the offset companionway hatch left little room on the starboard side for the chocks. The best solution I could come up with required the bracket to overlap the teak companionway rail. To do this the bracket would need to be raised two inches to be even with the top of the rail. I did not want to mess with the rail but it was the best solution. I started by scribing the complex curve of the rail onto a piece of door skin plywood. Then, I trimmed it till it fit. Next, I traced the pattern on to a scrap piece of 2x4 and shaped it to see that I would be able to make it fit properly. Good to go. Next, I took 60" long, 6" wide, 8/4 piece of teak I have been saving for two years just for this project. I ran it across the joiner and then through the planer to make it square. I came up with my best estimate for the dimension of the wood supports (the actual chocks) that would be bolted into the brackets and the dinghy's gunwale would eventually rest on. I had just enough extra for the 2" tall, 2 1/4" wide base. I cut the sections and then used my previous template to trace the pattern onto this block of wood. It took about 45 min to trim the block to shape mostly with my cabinet maker's rasp. I was pleased with the fit. Next, I used double sided tape to hold the base in place and made a little jig to sit on top of the base to make the router flush with the top of the companionway rail. I traced the end of the bracket onto the companionway rail then oh so carefully used the laminate trimmer with a small straight cut router bit to route out the wood. I was sweating bullets but it went fine. I was very careful and made about a half dozen passes each time lowering the bit until I got to the depth I wanted. I checked for fit. Very good. Next, I laid the bracket on top of the base and marked the holes. I drilled 1/4" holes through the block with my drill press then used a hand drill to score the deck using the holes in the block as a guide. I used a 3/4" fostner bit to drill down through the deck and into but not all the way through the dougfir ply. cleats below I was able to drill 1 3/4" down which is plenty of depth for a strong tapped hole. The oversize hole will be filled with epoxy then a smaller hole drilled into it and tapped. The technique prevents water from gaining access into the vulnerable balsa core in the cabin top. It was to late to do much more other than mark the location for the other brackets. With a cold front coming through I will not be able to pour the epoxy for a few days. All in all, a good day.
I tapped the threads for a 1/4"-20 bolt with a plunge and a bottom tap.
I chamfered the holes so the bedding compound will be driven down around the bolts making it more water tight.
I used scrap pine to build the mock up for the vertical supports. Soon, I will replace them with teak.
In my last entry I posted some pictures of the pine mock ups. Once that was complete I went ahead and milled the 8/4 (2" thick) teak down to 7/4 (1 3/4" thick) teak. The bronze brackets are made for 1 3/4" thick blocks. It seems like overkill to me but that is how they came. If I made the pattern myself, as I did for the gammon iron, I would have made it for a thinner stock, e.g. 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" max. Anyway, the first order of business was to remove the pine mockups one by one and use them as a template for the teak. I decided to make the top outside corners a little lower and I softened them with a more agressive round over. I also cut roundovers for all the edges. I used a combination square to transfer the lines. I used a Bosh jig saw to make the first cuts to create the ledges for the dinghy gunwale to sit on and then used a comination of chisels and cabinet maker rasps to create the curves and inside covers. It was pleseant work and I have gained a lot of confidence in the last few years using hand tools. I am by no means and expert but I can tell that I am able to achieve what I want without near the fuss and worry when I first started this project.
The bronze and teak dinghy chocks are ready to be installed along with the pads for the navigation lights.
First I cut away the excess with a finishing saw.
I used a chisel and cabinet makers rasp wo smooth the inside corners.
I softened all the edges to give the chock a more finished look.
The challenge was to fit all the components-- bronze bases, vertical chocks, and kerosene navigation lights together in the limited amount of room available. I would have liked to have made the vertical teak part of the chocks tilt inward about 3 degrees to match the slope of the cabin sides. But, if I wanted to put the navigation lights outboard of the aft chocks, where they are easy to access, there was not enough room. The 9’ fatty knees is 54” wide. That’s right. It’s exactly half as wide as it is long! It’s a fat boy. By the way, it sails great and carries a ton of stuff . . . it’s no wonder. Anyway, the geometry problem limited what I could do. Visually, if the cabin side slopes in, and the teak posts are vertical, then they will appear to slope outward. I decided that I could afford to tilt the vertical chocks inward about 1 degree. I could then cut the navigation light pads outboard about 1-2 degrees which I hoped would create the illusion of the chocks appearing to slope more inward. With that decision made, I slightly recut the lower bevel on the bottom of the teak chocks and mounted them with one screw for now.
A couple of days ago I laminated two layers of 1” thick Burmese teak together with Aerodux 185, which is a cold weather resorcinol adhesive. After it cured, I traced the foot print of the kerosene navigation lights onto the pads and took the two blocks of teak over to my friend’s house where he has a band saw. I cut the pattern out with a 5 degree bevel. I think 8-10 degrees would have looked better but, again, the amount of room I had limited my options. As it is, a five degree bevel softened the edges quite a bit. Next,I took the flat bottomed pads up to the boat and blocked them so they were level on top. I used a compass to scribe a line following the camber of the cabin top onto the sides of the teak pads. Then, I used double-sided tape to clamp the pads upside down to a table top and with a power hand planer carefully cut away the excess teak till I was about ¼” from the scribed line. Then, I used my hand smoothing plan to plane them down right to the line. I test fit them a couple of times to make sure all was well. Satisfied, I hit the bottom with a belt sander to smooth everything out—not really necessary as the hand planed bottom was very smooth. While planing the bottom I used the resorcinol glue line as a reference point to making sure the bottom was flat. If the line curves, then the slope is not even across the bottom. I also checked for flatness with a straight edge. With the slope cut in the pads I used a ¼” round over bit and a router to turn the edges. I cut the pads a little short intentionally so there is a gap between the bronze bracket and the pad to prevent water from collecting there. I have not mounted the pads yet. In the photo they are held in place with double sided tape. The teak pads for the navigation lights will be bedded with polysulfide. When the temps warm up in the next week or so, I will drill down through the pad into the deck. I’ll then over-drill the hole in the deck, same as I did for the bronze chock brackets, fill with epoxy, tap, and then insert a 1/” threaded bolt. Once they are mounted I will attach a vertical piece of bronze or copper strip several inches long and about an inch wide, screwed to the lower edge of the teak chock that the slot in the lantern will slide over and hold it in place. I’ll also attach a bronze cleat to each chock so the dinghy can be properly secured.
Below:
1. I scribed the camber of the deck top to the block of teak so I could cut the required angle.
2. I flipped the block over and clamped it. I eliminated the clamp by using double sided tape to hold the block in position while I cut away the excess with a power and hand plane.
3. The rough work with the power plane.
4. Checking to make sure it is flat. Then, I transitioned to the hand plane.
5. I took my time but the whole thing only took about 45 minutes.
6. All that is left is to cut a small "caulking groove" with a small cove router bit.
Below:
1. Starboard side looking aft.
2. Starboard side looking foward. The smoke head falls just to the inboard side of the light from dead ahead.
3. Port side looking aft.
4. In that small gap is where the vertical piece of copper will be that the slot in the latern will side over and be held in place.
The 3/32" silicon bronze I ordered from Atlas Metal last week arrived. I used my jigsaw to cut two strips about 1 1/2 wide and 6 1/4" long to serve as a bracket for the nav lights. I filed the edges smooth. I clamped them in a vise and bent a small "S" turn so there would be a 1/8" offset. Then I drilled two holes in each strip of #8 x1" bronze screws. I attached them to the lower part of the dinghy chocks just above the Nav Light pads. As you can see in the photo, the slot in the back of the nav light fits over the bronze bracket. I'll eventually add a safety lanyard with a snap hook. Early this evening I lit off the nav lights. The are quite bright and the lens is at least 4 times larger than the original incandescent navlights that came with the boat. To make this work, and not be a PITA, I need to install a tap off the main kerosene feed line for the refleks heater. The tap needs to be near the bottom of the companionway ladder so lanterns can easily be filled directly into the resivoir without a funnel or associated kabuki dance. The main kerosene tank is 10 gallons and it's located in the starboard side cockpit locker and has a direct feed to the refleks heater in the forward part of the saloon. When I bought the lanterns, I found them used, I replaced the burners with ones that have a chimney which makes them unlikely to be blown out in high winds. The mod was simple. Unscrew the original and screw the new one right into the reservoir.
The bracket is cut from 3/32" thick silicon bronze. I bent the "S" turn on a vise. The slot in the back of the lantern drops right over the bracket. It's very secure.
I have often heard folks say oil lamps are not bright enough. They look plenty bright to me.
After installed the book shelf over the chart table/icebox I immediately turned my attention to installing the dinghy chocks and navlight fittings over the new Kiwigrip nonskid deck paint. I carefully taped everything off with 3M 233 tape. I applied 3M 4000 UV bedding compound and cleaned up all the squeeze out then removed the tape. Bedding unvarnished teak, or any unvarnished wood for that matter, is tricky and one is advised to be patient and very careful. We had no problems and I am glad to have it completed.
Chainplates
Today I drilled the holes for the chain plates. I have been waiting a long time to check that off the list. I expected it to be complicated but it turned out be simple. I drilled from the interior up through the deck where I had glassed over the holes last year when I wrapped the hull deck joint with three layers of biaxial. I did not caulk or even install nuts or washers. Just drilled the holes and dropped the old bolts through to check for alignment. I did not drill out the holes for the aft intermediates. I am considering replacing them with running back-stays. If I change my mind I can drill out the old holes pretty easily. It is great to have this done.
Its great to finally have the holes drilled for the chainplates.
It was time to install a few more deck fittings. I installed the last of the chain plates--aft intermediates. Pretty easy to do. I drilled up through the steel plates that are glassed into the hull under the inward turning flange. Then, I chamfered the holes and bedded the bronze chain plates with butyl rubber. I installed 316 1/2" bolts. Next, I installed reinstalled the original bobstay fitting but in a new location that I worked on over a year ago. Because the new bow sprit will be longer than the original plank style I needed to improve the angle of the bobstay to counter the leverage arm of the head stay. The new location is about 10" lower than the original location. It is still above the water line. The original location was well up on the stem so I had room to move it lower. I drilled the holes previously so it was a matter of just bedding the bobstay fitting with 3M 4000 and three new bronze bolts with a double set of new heavy duty nuts for each bolt. Simple project. In addition to the gammon iron I designed and Port Townsend Foundry Cast almost two years ago I had to install the bow sprit shroud tangs on the topside just below the gunwale. They are secured with three 3/8" bronze carriage bolts. I had to remove some of the ceiling in the forward compartment and make very careful measurements to drill the holes. The tangs should align with the sprit shrouds. I used some scrap G10 for the back up plates. To determine the correct angle I installed the original bowsprit mock up I made a couple of years ago. I ran some lines between the tangs and the kranze iron, drilled the holes and installed the tangs bedding them with butyl rubber. It was nice to get those three projects out of the way.
Installing the Windlass
I spent some time the week before last working on the mounting system for the anchor windlass. Once I determined where the holes were to be located I drilled a one inch diameter hole in the deck with a hole saw. I did not drill through the deck just through the top layer and the balsa core. I dug out the balsa core and then filled the hole with epoxy thickened with 407 and a little 404 filler. After it cured I faired it with some 407 thickened epoxy though in the photo to the right I have not sanded it flush. I'll do that in the next couple of day. Since the bolts diameter will be much smaller than 1" diameter (3/8" bolts) the oversize epoxy filled holes will project the balsa core from any water than may get into the bolt hole. I don't need to spend much time making it perfect as I will chamfer out the holes when I drill for the bronze bolts and apply the caulk. The backing plate for the windlass is a 12"x12" 1/2" thick square of manufactured fiberglass sheet I bought from McMaster Carr. I could have used G10 but it cost about three times as much as the fiberglass and won't add anything to the equation.
Drill the holes oversize then fill with thickened epoxy.
Once the epoxy is sanded flush I can drill for the bolts. The epoxy filled oversized holes prevents the balsa core deck from being crushed and protect the blasa core from water penetration.
Fore Deck Hardware and Chain-Pipes
This past week I worked on deck cleats and the rope chain pipe. I also mounted the windlass on a two inch thick teak block (click here for info on rebuilding the ABI windlass). Raising the windlass will help keep the chain off the deck and improve the ergonomics of cranking on the windlass. I also installed a teak riser block under the rope chain pipe. I think raising it a bit will help keep water out of the pipe. Instead of through bolting the chain-pipe, I drilled and tapped threaded holes for the #10 bronze, oval head, machine screws. Regarding the windlass riser block, I decided not to use the portside chain pipe ring opting instead for a separate chain pipe mounter foward of the windlass. The reason for this is that the rope locker is forward of the chain locker and allows the second bower to run through the rope/chain pipe more cleanly.
The usual suspects for tapping holes, the tap, drill bit (not shown), and chamfer bit. Chamfering not only improves the effectiveness of the bedding compound but also helps align the threaded fastener into the tapped hole.
The cleats are not bedded in this photo but they are positioned. I decided not to use the chain pipe on the port side of the windlass and opted for a stand alone pipe foward of the windlass which is where the rope locker is located.
We put a lot of thought into where to locate the components of the ground tackle system. We wanted fair leads and an uncluttered foredeck.
The windlass sat on the teak block for the last couple of weeks while I waited to get the 3/8"X5 1/2" long hex head bronze bolts from CC Fasteners. Once they arrived I tapped of the deck and then prepared for bedding the G10 plate, the teak block, and the base of the windlass. My sister Tricia helped me out on this. I routered a small groove on the top of the block centered under the windlass base to match the small channel cut in the bottom of the windlass base itself. I did this to better permit water to drain out. I don't intend to use the rope "ring" on the portside so I will cut a teak plug and install it in the raised ring so water won't collect there. The windlass backing plate (on the underside of the deck) is also 1/2" G-10. We bedded the windlass using different compounds--I used white 3M 4000UV between the white G10 plate and the deck; I used teak brown polysulfide from Boat Life between the teak block on the G10 plate, and I used butyl rubber around the area where the bolts pass through the windlass base. As soon as I finished installing the windlass, I realized I made a mistake. In retrospect, I should have used Dolphinite for all the layers with the addition of butyl rubber around the chamfered holes. It would have made it much much easier to remove the windlass for cleaning and repair. So, after the first time I remove it for repair, I will bed it with Dolphinite.
The winldass is bedded in place.
I needed a way to store rope anchor rode yet have it quickly assessable on deck. After looking at all kinds of chain pipes I settled on ones made by Spartan Marine, who made the bronze hardware for the original Cape Dory (see photos below). I chose a large one for the forward rode and a smaller one for the 1/2" diameter aft anchor rode. I don't intent to have chain permanently on either of these rodes but the chain-pipes had notches cast into the base to accommodate the links of a chain when the cap is in place. The problem with this is that if you desire to reverse the cap, to keep water out when off shore (you would then of course have the end of the rode suspended from the hook connected to the underside of the cap), there is still a hole uncovered and no good way to block it. Since, I don't intend to have chain permanently attached to the rode and laying on the deck I asked my friend Steve Chase if he could weld them closed. Long time readers may recall that Steve, a man of many talents, welded up all by bulwark brackets. Click here for the story on the bulwark brackets. Steve, who now lives only 75 miles away made quick work of it. He did a great job. After he welded them, I filed off the overfill, ground them smooth, polished them up to remove the filing/grinding marks. I'll leave them to go green with natural patina for the long hole.
Chain pipe with original, but unwanted, chain slot.
Chain pipes after Steve welded up the chain slots.
The hole is just big enoug for the nylon rode.
For offshore work the cover can be reversed to help keep sea water out.
On previous boats I have owned the anchor chain and line simply stowed in the bow compartment behind non-water tight bulkhead that had a vertical hatch in the face that opened for access. This is the common set up on most boats. Due to the small hatch, it is usually difficult to gain access into the space which can be down right dangerous if there is a tangle with the anchor chain. Also, the compartment is usually dark, hard to clean, and smells bad due to poor ventilation. As part of the rebuild of the Far Reach I wanted to address those issues. I decided to open the space up for ventilation (which would help the anchor line and chain to dry out) and access which would also help make a normally cramped forward cabin feel a little bigger. We did that (click here for more info on building the forward cabin) by cutting out and reinstalling a new more open bulkhead while also making it stronger. We also designed the storage for the chain rode and second bower to be separate. To complete our plan we decided to install chain and bower bags to contain the chain and line (see gallery below). We surmised that bags would help prevent contact between the inside of the hull and wet and sometimes muddy chain and line.
The forward locker is set up to handl about 300' of 5/8" three strand nylon line as the second bower. The grey sunbrella matches the grey paint nicely. The anchor chain drops down via the chain pipe and into the black stamoid vinyl bag.
We decided to use grey colored sunbrella for the rope bower since the compartment is painted grey and the bag would not be obvious. Also, we felt that the sunbrella would be tough enough to handle the abrasion of the anchor line. Larry Ingram of Larry's Custom Canvas in Morehead City made the bag to a pattern we provided. I installed brass eye straps in the forward face of the bulkhead for the aft end of the bag. I installed #2 brass spur grommets in the bag and then used 3/16" double braid line to secure grommets to the eye straps. I fabricated some wood padeyes and epoxied them to the inside of the locker with thick fillets of thickened epoxy. I secure the forward end of the bag to the padeyes with the double braid line. We installed a grommet in the aft bottom of the bag to allow water to pass through and dribble back to the bilge sump. Larry's Ingram recommend we use 12.7oz Stamoid vinyl fabric for the chain bag. He had it in black and constructed it to a pattern we provide. It is heavy weight and appears to be super tough, durable, and water proof. Once the bag was completed, I positioned it to determine where to install the grommets. I installed #2 brass spur grommets on the corners of the bag and then installed brass eye straps to the bulkheads using 3/16 double braid to marry the bag grommets to the eyestraps. The black bag kind of blends in with the dark space. Both bags will be easy to remove for cleaning.
The chain locker bag is black 12.7 oz stamoid. Is is very durable, waterproof, and abrasion resistant.
The lines for the grey rope bower bag is rove through wooden blocks with chamfered holes drilled into them and epoxied in place with large fillets. The aft end of the bag has lines run to bronze eye straps secured in the forward face of the bulkhead.
We installed a grommet in the bottom of the bag to allow water to trickle back to the bilge sump. You can just make out the SS pad eye I installed on the other starboard side of the mahogany post. We will secure the end of the chain to the padeye with about 15' of 1/4" line.
Cockpit Lockers
19 Nov 11Yesterday I was anxious to be doing something on the boat while waiting for warmer weather to prime the overhead panels. So, I started working on the teak frames that support the cockpit locker lids. The frames have been off the boat and disassembled for about two years . . . very groady and grimy. About a month ago I cleaned them up with some two part teak cleaner. The port side frame was not in too bad a shape so I chiseled out the old adhesive (the glue had failed) and epoxied them back together. I would have preferred to use resorcinol but the joints are not that tight, the temps are too cold for resorcinol, and because the wood is protected from direct sunlight I think epoxy will work fine. I used System Three T-88 which is the same adhesive I used to apply the vertical staving on the bulkheads . . . good stuff.
Test fitting the frame. Once I glue it up I will install wood plugs over counter-sunk fasteners.
After the epoxy cured it was time to tap the holes for 1/4"-20 bolts that will secure the bronze dinghy chock brackets to the deck. I drilled the holes with a 13/64 bit using a small wood block as a drill guide that kept the drill bit perpendicular and plumb. It also served as a depth stop. Next, I chamfered the top of the hole which will force bedding compound down in around the bolt when the brackets are tightened down with bedding compound. Next, I ran a plunge tapp down 1 1/4" then followed it with a bottom tap for a blind hole 1 7/16" deep. After tapping all the holes, I temporarily installed the brackets with some 1 1/2" 304 ss flat head bolts I had on hand. After installing the bronze brackets I measured for the vertical posts. I used some scrap 2x6 white pine to serve as mock up/templates and cut them to length. I cut the bottom bevel to match the slope of the bracket after determining it with the protractor head off my combination square. After checking for fit, I cut the upper edges with a notch in the outside corners, to capture the dinghy gunwale, which you can see in the photo gallery below. Then, I used a spirit level across the keelson of the dinghy to make sure it was level and plumb. Satisfied, I drove some screws in the pine temporarily securing them to the brackets. Right now, the transom of the dinghy sits about two inches above the sliding section of the companionway which seems like a good height. Last, I laminated two layers of teak planks with Aerodux 185 (cold weather resorcinol adhesive) in preparation for making the "shelves" for the navigation lights.
Test fitting the locker lid on the new wood frame.
Unfortunately, the starboard side frame was not salvageable. So, I decided to rebuild it using some Iroko I had on hand. Some folks call Iroko poor man’s teak. It is not teak but it has similar properties. It took awhile to make the frame because the starboard side locker is not square. It has 5 degree bevels on one side getting wider from the aft to the forward end. Also, the frame has a rabbet cut in the bottom to drop down inside the molded opening. It seems like an odd design to me. it is hard to maintain the outside surfaces of the wood since you can't get access to them without removing the frame work. Anyway, tonight, I screwed the frame assembly together and set it in place. I am pleased with how it turned out. Tomorrow, I’ll glue it up, cut wood plugs for the counter sinks and then consider how I will protect the wood. I might just paint them since you can’t see them.
This evening, I went back out to the shop and spent about 45 minutes repairing the holes that accommodate the bolts that secure the hinges to the cockpit hatch lids. When Cape Dory installed the hinges they took no action to protect the balsa core where the bolts passed through the lid. There was core damage, though slight, around four of the 12 holes. It is a simple fix. I took a half inch drill bit and drilled an oversize hole through the bottom skin of the lid being careful not to drill into the outside skin (the proximity of the edge of the hatch lid limited the size of the hole I could drill though to be sure 1/2" was big enough). I used a scratch awl to dig out additional core material. Next, I taped up the told hole on the outside skin (the side the hinge will be secure to). These holes will serve as the guide to drill out the epoxy plug for the hinge bolts so they can be reinstalled in the same location. I used a small "acid" that I twisted through the 1/2" hole and brushed unthickend epoxy on to the surface of the remaining core around the holes. Then, I mixed up some more epoxy thickened with 406 thickener and filled the cavity to the top. Last, I cleaned up the area around the holes with acetone and called it a night. When I am ready to install the hinges I will drill the hole through the center of the epoxy plug. Any water that leaks in along the bolt (none if I do a proper job of bedding the hinges) will not gain access to the vulnerable balsa core.
You can see where there is damage to the right hole where the overtightend nut cracked the outer skin and allowed water to get to the balsa core.
The holes drill out larger sized from the inside of the seat hatch lid.
The drilled out holes filled with thickened epoxy.
A couple of days ago I finished up the cockpit locker hatch frames. For the starboard Iroko frame I installed plugs over the countersunk screws. I then used a router with a 1/4" round-over bit to radius the top horizontal edges and their associated inside corners. I also radiused the outside vertical edges to give it a much smoother more refined look. Then, I used a 2 1/2" hole saw to create a large drain hole in the frame for the small sub compartment at the forward end of the locker. Lastly, I installed teak wood plugs in the ordinal teak portside locker hatch frame.
This picture shows the dado joint and 1/4" round over of the top edge of the locker frame.
I am pleased with how the locker frame turned out.
This afternoon, I bedded the two cockpit locker frames with 3M 4000UV. In the next couple of days I'll install the hinges.
I bedded the cockpit locker frames with 3M 4000UV.
Cockpit Seat Top Scuppers
Cockpit Seat Scuppers. I had put off installing the cockpit scuppers that serve to drain the seats into the foot well for too long. A long long time ago in a galaxy far far away, I filled in the hole cut for the engine control panel in the side wall of the cockpit foot well and filled everything in. In fact, even with close examination there is no trace of the repair work there or for the instrument holes filled in on the aft end of the cabin as well. Because of the engine control boxs proximity to the scupper hole, the hole was filled in as well. It was a simple project to cut the hole and install the scupper. I checked to make sure where the hole would be cut to make sure I would not cut through anything I did not intend to cut. I taped it up to help reduce the likelihood of cracking the fiberglass as the drill started to cut with a 1 1/8" hole saw. With the hole cut, I cleaned up the residue, wiped it down with acetone, and bedded the through hull with 3M 4000. One more project checked off the list.
Tapping before drilling to reduce the chance of cracking the gelcoat/paint.
Self explainatory.
3M 4000 squeeze out wiped up. Installation complete.
Deck Hatches
19 May 12Yesterday I started work on reinstalling the deck hatches. Nothing has been simple so far and so in keeping with that theme this has proved to be difficult as well. The hatches are the original Bomar Offshore 100 series. I sent the top half to Hatch Masters and they did a nice job rebuilding them and switching from the 3/16" Lexan to 3/8" acrylic. They are still in the box. Before I can install the hatches the frame work that supports them has to be rebuilt. The boat had a fiberglass headliner. If you look the photo to the left you can see Cape Dory did not do a good job with the deck mold to properly fit the Bomar hatches. The the hatch frame extends past the hatch opening. The area under the hatch frame was originally trimmed with 5/8" teak. That screw you see in the photo was drilled into the very end of one of the teak trim pieces. Some of the screws had little to nothing to grab. Originally there was exposed balsa core all around the opening. The screws when into the upper skin and then into the unsealed balsa core. Notice also that the caulking grove sat on top of the wood trim. IMO this was a terrible design. There was very little holding the hatch on. I suspect green water on the deck could tear the hatch right off. I needed a new plan before I could reinstall the hatch.
Note the screw originally went into the very end of the wood trim. Not good. Also not the caulking grove was built over the wood trim.
After thinking about the different ways this could be addressed I emailed my most trusted advisor. He provided several experiences and reasonable ways to address the problem. After thinking about the options I decided to substitute some premanufactured fiberglass for part of what was originally the vertical wood trim. This would keep everything the same dimension as originally used but not put wood under the caulking groove which you can see in the top photo. But, I decided to keep reinstall wood trim for the lower half. The fiberglass trim will be painted white to match the overhead. The wood trim will be varnished mahogany. Also, I decided not to use self tapping SS screws to secure the hatch frame but 1/4" machine screws instead. That means I'll have to tap the holes. It did a test tap on a piece of the scrap fiberglass I plan to use and it worked fine. So, the corner holes will be tapped into the edge of the premanufactured fiberglass trim I plan to install. The rest of the holes will drilled and tapped into the existing original deck hatch frame opening. It's not a perfect solution but it seems like the best of the several options short of major surgery.
In this photo you are looking down on one of the scrap wood pieces I used as a jig to build up and even out the edge of the hatch opening with thickened epoxy. If you look close you can see my pencil marks where the screws will be installed into the deck hatch frame.
First, I needed to make sure the cutouts were square and even all the way around as the edge of the hatch opening was concave and would only make the installation more difficult if left uncorrected. To accomplish that I cut some scrap and covered it in packing tape. I smeared some thickened epoxy on the edge of the hatch opening and screwed the scrap to the wooden subframe I installed last fall. I cleaned up the squeeze out and let it sit over night. Today, I removed the scrap wood. I removed the amine blush with water, scrub pad, and paper towel. I sanded it by hand with 60 grit abrasive. Next, I took a 12"x 24" piece of 1/2" thick piece of premanufactured fiberglass and ripped into into 1" wide strips. I used an old Freud Diablo 26T thin kerf blade. I wore a paper suit, full face repirator, gloves and had both vacuums running to collect the fiberglass dust. I used featherboards for safety. The blade was pretty much destroyed in the process but I was prepared for that. It was one I kept on hand for just such a purpose. It was nasty work but I was glad to get it behind me.
Next, I ran one edge of the strips through the portable bench top router with an old 1/8" round-over bit I previously used on some G10. I measured the hatch openings and cut them to length. I taped off the area around the hatch opening. I test fit all the pieces to make sure they fit properly and my clamping system would work. Satisfied, I numbered the strips sanded the back side with 60 grit abrasive paper. After vacuuming and performing an acetone wipe down I wet out the edge of the hatch opening and the back side of the trim pieces. I mixed up some thickened epoxy, trowled it on the strips, and clamped them in place. I removed the tape and left it for the night. Its aggravating to have to fix what should be basic boat building practices. I have run across numerous problems like this during the course of the rebuild--core areas penetrated by hardware not properly sealed resulting in large areas of rotted core, lack of limber holes in the bilge that rotted one of the bulkheads, mild steel backing plates that can't be easily accessed, hundreds of unnecessary holes drilled in the deck (many of which leaked), bulkheads tabbed on only one side and some not tabbed across the top, etc. Of course, this kind of sub par work is not limited to sailboats. It's associated with nearly everything we buy in the modern world. On the other hand, much of the boat was well built and I think (I hope anyway) I have corrected all the problem areas (at least all the ones I have found) in as professional a manner as my skills permit. It has added extra time to the rebuild. But we are well past the corner and though not quite on the home stretch most of what lay ahead is not that daunting.
The fiberglass trim epoxied in place. These peices will sit under the edge of the frame replacing the original wood. There is also more room for the screws so they are not installed right on the edge of the opening.
After installing the premanufactured fiberglass to build out the inside edge of interior of the hatch frame I cut small corner pieces and epoxied them in place. I filed them to match the round inside corner of the hatch base that will be fastened to the deck on top of this new inside edge. Next, I applied two coats of primer then three coats of Interlux Brightside one part LPU in white. This is the same paint I used on the overhead panels. The Doug Fir you can see just below the painted fiberglass trim will be varnished mahogany. Instead of drilling and installing self tapping screws I plan to tap the holes and install SS 316 oval head machine bolts. They have been on back order for nearly three weeks. They should arrive next week and then I can complete the installation of the hatches.
Installing Deck Hatches. A while back I had the deck hatches sand blasted and painted with awl-grip. Then, after a lot of thought about the best way to proceed I decided to send the hatch lids off to "Hatch Masters" AKA Select Plastics to have them rebedded. Though I thoroughly researched what I would have to do to install new lenses myself, in the end, I decided it was a lot of precise work and that if I did not get it right I could have significant leaking into the boat. This is one of the few areas I decided to let someone else do the work. I also chose to replace the flimsy 1/4" thick lexan with thicker 3/8" acrylic. It was not cheap but Hatch Master did a very professional top. They look brand new. Based on the way I framed in the underside of the hatch frames (see previous hatch entries here) I decided not to use self tapping screws to install the hatches. Tim Lackey gave me some great advice about tapping fiberglass for machine screws, which is what I decided to do. These would be blind holes, meaning the bottom would not penetrate the bottom of the material being tapped. This requires two taps. A tapered tap and a bottom tap. First, I positioned the hatch and clamped it into place. Then, I drilled very shallow 1/8" deep "starter holes" with a 1/4" bit to keep everything centered. Then, I removed the hatch base and with a home built small 90 degree jig I carefully drilled the holes (they need to be undersize when you tap) with a 13/64 bit and a drill stop to make sure I did not drill further than necessary. Next, I used the tapered tap to cut the threads then used the bottom tap. I wrapped some tape around the tap to mark the depth I wanted to go to. When all the holes were tapped I vacuumed out the residue. Finally, I set the hatch in place and installed the 1/4"-20 x 1" long, 316 SS oval head machine screws for a test fit. Perfect. I have the hatch hinge pins on order from McMaster Carr so I used some 1/4" machine bolts to insert through the hinge holes to hold the hatches in place. There is some work to be done to clean up the dogs and risers but that is small stuff. I'll bed the hatches in the next few days. It's great to get rid of the plywood that is being covering the hatch opening for far too long.
Below:
1. Bottom tap on the left, tappered tap on the right.
2. Practice tap into the premanufactured fiberglass.
3. Clamping the hatch in place to use as a template for driling the holes.
4. These are the starter hole, about 1/8" deep. The undersized 13/64" bit is used next.
5. Tapping the holes. I use the tape to set the depth.
6. Holes tapped. Test fitting the machine screws.
7. Hatch in place. It looks great.
8. Bedding compound coming soon.
It was time to install the deck hatches. I decided to experiment. I have been using butyl tape to install some of the deck hardware. It is interesting to work with and is supposed to far out live modern bedding compounds. But, I wonder how much better it really is. You can always find someone with an opinion but I wanted to know for my self. I needed a test with two similar items. So, I bedded the hatch over the saloon with 3M 4000UV and the forward hatch with butyl tape. Saloon Hatch. I could just have easily used Boat Caulk vice 3M 4000UV but I did not have any on hand. I went with what I had. I chamfered the predrilled and tapped fastener holes (for both hatches) with a countersink. I taped everything, just like I did with the companionway rails. This stuff is messy. I vacuumed then wiped the hatch frame down with acetone as well as the deck where the hatch would be positioned. I got a small plastic bag like the ones they give you at the grocery store. I laid all the tools out. I double checked the fit. I applied Teff Gel to the bolts (remember that I tapped the holes for the deck hatches) to reduce the likelihood of galvanic corrosion between the aluminum hatch and the SS fasteners. I applied small "donuts" of butyl under the heads right on top of the Teff Gel and dropped them through the holes in the hatch frame. I applied the 4000 to the deck vice the hatch as there was no way to hold the fasteners in place if I turned the hatch frame upside down to caulk the bottom of it. Then I gently lowered the hatch onto the deck frame so the bolts went right into the holes. Then, I slowly tightened the fasteners getting good squeeze out all around. I cleaned up the squeeze out with a small plastic scoop (Dap Cap) and paper towel dropping everything into the plastic grocery bag. It pays to be determined to keep everything clean. Once I removed the squeeze out I peeled off the tape. Only minor smoothing of the edge of the hatch and caulk was required. It looked great. For the forward hatch, I conducted the same pre installation routine--chamfered the holes followed by a vacuum and acetone wipe down. I then applied the butyl tape to the underside of the frame. I applied Teff Gel to the fasteners and a small donut of butyl under the head of the fastener (right over the Teff Gel) and also on the bottom side were the faster comes out through the flange. This took about an hour. Because the butyl does not "set up" there was no rush. Once I completed applying the butyl I lowered it down onto the deck flange. Then, I slowly tightened down moving back and forth across the hatch so it would be pressed down onto the butyl and the deck evenly all the way around. I did not tighten down too hard. The butyl does not squeeze out like the 4000. It takes a couple of days. Even though I was careful I stripped one bolt. No worries as I fixed it later with a 2" #14 oval head SS self tapping screw. It matches perfectly. Anyway, I retightened a couple of hours later and let it sit overnight. The next day I tightened it twice more. I had pretty good squeeze out by then. I pulled off some of the squeezed out butyl and used it to stick to the rest of the butyl and pulled it off just like you would use gum to pull gum off the carpet. It works well. Initial impressions: The caulk requires more preparation and tapping. It can be very messy if you are not careful. But, when you are done, you are done. The butyl requires several days to get it to settle and squeeze out. Also, you have to be careful not to over tighten it as you can strip the threads, especially when the threads have been tapped into fiberglass. The butyl looks a little ragged around the hatch. Partly it is because I did not want to spend a lot of time getting it perfect as I think I will continue to get some more squeeze out over the next couple of day and partly because it is time consuming to get it just right. Time will tell how one performs against the other. Next, I went to work on cleaning, sanding, and painting the hatch risers. I used acetone to wipe them down and then sanded them with a maroon 3M scrubby pad. I performed another acetone wipe down. I painted them with Rustoleum semi gloss black spray paint. I hung them on little loops of wire to dry. I cleaned up the dogs and installed them with the 5/32" SS coiled spring pins. I applied Teff Gel to the pins to provide some protection between the aluminum and the SS and gently tapped them in with a small hammer. Installation was easy. Tomorrow I will install the risers. I may not install the coiled spring hinge pins in the hatch hinges for a while. I can use a 1/4" bolt as a temporary fastener. It's easier to remove the hatch lids if I wait to install the pins later. Tomorrow I will call it complete.
Below:
1. Tapping is essential as there can be a lot of squeeze out.
2. the finished product looks great.
3. Applying the butyl to the underside of the hatch frame.
4. It will take a few more days for the squeeze out to complete. I'll spend more time removing the excess butyl.
5. Hatch dogs are installed.
I installed the "risers" for the deck hatches. I lightly sanded and then painted the risers with black satin Rustoleum spray paint. I ordered a bottom tap which I needed to penetrate all the way to the bottom of the blind holes for the 5/16" bolts that needed to be cleaned out. I coated the SS bolts threads with Teff-Gel which is critical to keep them from corroding and seizing inside the cast aluminum frame. I used a SS washer on the lower riser arm but will replace it with a synthetic one. I removed the paper that had been protecting the lens. I think they look great. Hatch Masters did a fine job rebuilding them.
Rebuilt and repainted risers installed. I finally removed the protective paper from the lens.
The risers look new after a light sanding and rustoleum spray paint.
Cockpit Coamings and Winch Bases.
The winch bases. I decided to see if I could not reuse the original primary winch bases, with some modification. First, I cut them down to about 8 1/4" wide or 1 1/4" wider than the base of my Lewmar 44 ST winches. Next, I bought two 8/4 teak off-cuts from Atlantic Veneer for about half off the normal price. From those, I made 4" tall bases for my smaller bronze Lewmar #10s that will also be on the coaming and used to sheet the staysail which is no longer club footed. The sheet leads will be mounted on the side deck near the side of the cabin top. Since I moved the staysail tack forward to the stem I end up with about the same sheeting angle as if the leads were on the cabin top in it original location. From the other piece of 8/4 teak I will make some 2" tall pads. These will be mounted on the wider bases and raise the winch up above the coaming. The base of the Lewmar 44s need to be all of 6" high because the jib sheet is mounted on the 6" tall bulwark. I need 3-5 degrees of up angle from the turning block to the winch drum. Mocks up indicate this plan will meet that requirement. As I said, the original bases were in rough shape with some slight glue line separation. To address it, I make cuts along the glue line with my table saw and inserted 1/4" wide 8" long "Dutchman" as a way to bond back the base. I used T-88 epoxy for the job because it hides will under varnish. The bases will be varnished along with the cockpit coaming but the teak pads will be bare. The winches will be mounted on top of the pads. It has taken more time and energy to rebuild the pads than I thought. I have relearned this lesson several times.
Rebuilding the winch bases have taken on a life of their own. Here I am installing a "Dutchman" to address a glue line separation.
The winch bases. Work continued on the winch bases. As described in an earlier post, I needed to raise the winches, especially the primaries to ensure a sufficient upward angle on the jib sheets from the 6 1/2" high bulwarks to the winch. In order to accomplish that I made 2" thick teak pads from some 8/4 teak off-cuts. I drilled the bases part way through after marking the holes using the actual winches to be mounted. I determined the size the pads and took all the components with me to the Camp Lejeune Wood Hobby Shop. They have a drill press with a five inch reach allowing me to drill all the way through the bases at one time and ensuring that I had a straight hole. I cut the pads out on the band saw and used a very large oscillating horizontal belt sander to sand the pads perfectly round and with an 8 degree taper. Then, with my own 12" long bits, I drilled holes through the pads and the bases on the big drill press. After I returned home I placed them on the deck. It took some fussing to come up with a compromise position for the winches. One of the funny and often aggravating things about the Cape Dory 36 is none of the bulkheads are symmetrical. By that, I mean they are not exactly opposite one another on opposite sides of the boat. They are staggered usually about 4" but even more so under the cockpit. This has caused me some challenges I would rather have not had to deal with during several projects. This project, as it turned out, was another example. There is a bulkhead that runs under the forward edge of the starboard cockpit locker. I had to position the primary winch either on the forward or aft side of that bulkhead. I really wanted it in the middle but that was a no go. I chose to position it to the front of the bulkhead because it seemed more ergonomic when handling the tiller and it left me enough room to mount a boom gallows on the aft end of the boat, vice over the companionway, if that is what I choose to do. In other words, it left me some options that seemed desirable. However, the bulkhead on the port side is much further forward and ended under the location I had chosen for the forward staysail winch--rats! So, I left the winches on the deck for a couple of days experimenting with different locations and going about my other projects sort of testing to see what I like best or disliked least. I also looked on-line at other boats that I admired. I looked at dodgers to see which ones I liked, should we chose eventually to install one, and would that style work with the different winch locations I was considering. Finally, it was time to decide. I chose to install the forward winch a little further forward than I would like in a perfect world. The best way to exit the cockpit appears to be to step between the winches and because the forward winch is rather small there is plenty of room to work forward on the side deck around it. It's a compromise. But, the winch handles clear the stanchion, life lines, and each other with plenty of room. I think it will work. I briefly thought about replacing the Lewmar 44 ST winches because they are more than an inch taller and an inch wider than the Lewmar 40s that are available new. The 44's look overly large to me sitting on the 2" tall pads on top of the 4 1/4" bases but they are very serviceable and I have worked hard to not go down the rabbit hole of replacing equipment that works just fine with new shiny stuff. So far, we have kept the project close to the budget we allocated for the rebuild. We have purchased only the bare essentials new--wood, epoxy, biaxial, bedding compound, water tanks, hoses, seacocks, fasteners (a scary amount of fasteners), hardware for the tiller and some other odds and ends. To be sure, there are plenty of "new" items remaining to buy but it could have been much worse if we did not control the urge to always by new equipment. Anyway, with the decision made regarding the location it was time to drill the holes. I used an electric hand drill with my 12" long bits. I clamped the bases in place and using the previously dilled holes as a guide I drilled down into the deck penetrating the underside of the deck with one hole to check the location inside the boat. Satisfied, I then drilled the other holes (inserting some of the old bolts as I went to ensure the base stayed in the proper location) through the upper skin but not through the inner skin. After drilling all the holes I removed the bases and used a 7/8" diameter fostner bit to drill over-size holes in the upper skin of the boat down through the balsa core but not through the inner skin. Next, I used a scratch awl and dental probe to dig out a little balsa core all the way around from under the edge of the holes. Next, I mixed up some unthickend epoxy with 205 fast hardener and poured it into the holes. Here, things got exciting. I poured all the holes at one time thinking the temps were were pretty cool outside--about 55 degrees and heat would not be a problem. But, I was wrong. One set of holes started to smoke. I immediately drilled all the holes out with the 7/8" fostner bit. Incredible. Only one was still gooey--all the others were curing and very hot. I let the drilled out holes sit for about 45 minutes then I went at it again this time filling the holes in two stages about 45 min apart. I laugh now but I assure you I was not laughing at the time. About two hours later before the plugs were fully cured I topped them off with some thickened epoxy to ensure they were flush with the deck. I put heat lamps on the work areas to ensure the cold night time temps would not interfere with the epoxy curing requirements. When the 9" long bolts arrive I will drill down through the center of the 1" wide plug with the appropriate, but much smaller bit, for the fasteners. This solid plug technique ensures water can't get to the balsa core and also that the deck won't be crushed with the much softer balsa core as the only thing separating the upper and lowers skins of the deck. The bolts are on order and I expect them next week.
Below:
1. The bases require a little more work--rounding over the edges, etc but they will essentially look like this.
2. Another view.
3. I clamped the base before I drilled the holes. I inserted a bolt and drilled a hole and so-on-and-so-forth.
4. I over drilled the holes with a 7/8" fostner bit then dug out more balsa core from under the edges.
5. I filled the holes with unthickened epoxy and after it kicked I laid on some more epoxy with thickener to make them flush with the deck.
Making the winch pad backing plates (photo gallery below). It was also time to install the primary and secondary sheet winches. I gathered up the supplies I needed--wash pails, brushes, grease, oil, parts diagram, spare springs and pawls, etc. But first, I set about cutting and drilling out the backing plates for the winch bases. The Far Reach originally had only primary sheet winches. Only the port side winch had a backing plate (the only one the "owner" would be able to see). It was 1/4" aluminum. The starboard side winch was under the one piece head liner and not visible. I don't remember there being an access to the nuts. Anyway, the starboard side winch had just washers and nuts. Criminal. Because I added riser pads to the winch bases I needed longer bolts-- 9" vice the original 7" long. The primaries use 5/16" and the secondaries use 1/4" fasteners. I purchased them through CC Fasteners. They were easy to work with and professional. The fasteners were, as you can imagine, shockingly expensive. I would have been fine with SS but I could not find them that long. I already had the bronze nuts and washers so I saved money for that part of the assembly. I decided to use 1/4" G-10 manufactured composit epoxy flat sheet. This is great stuff. Super hard and strong, impervious to everything, can't rust or cause galvanic corrosion, etc. It's expensive but I will need some for the running back stays and for under the deck cleats and the section I bought we be more than enough. I used 1/2" thick G-10 for backing plate for the windlass and the bow sprit and gammon iron. I used the original aluminum backing plate to guide the size for the G-10. Normally, I would make it a little bigger but there are some restrictions under the side deck such as the molded cockpit coaming, proximity of bulkheads, and of course the camber of the deck. Also, all the strain is in sheer. I also pre drilled oversize bolt holes in the deck and back filled with epoxy to make solid non-crushible plugs--click here for more info on that project. To cut the backing plates I used my compass to draw the appropriate diameter circle. Then, I traced over it with a sharpie. Next, I used a Bosch jig saw with a carbide tipped blade to cut the shape out. Then, I cleaned up the edges with the bench top belt sander. Next, I taped the backing plate to the underside of the winch pad and with the appropriate 12" long bit, I used the pad itself as a guide for drilling down and through the backing plate. I inserted bolts as I went to make sure everything would like up. Last, I flipped the base and backing plate over and marked the position with the sharpie to make sure all the holes would line up. In the next day or so I will clean the winches and then install them.
I have been doing a little more varnishing--behind some cabinetry in the head and at the rear of the quarter berth. It was also time to install the primary and secondary sheet winches. I gathered up the supplies I needed--wash pails, brushes, grease, oil, parts diagram, spare springs and pawls, etc. But first, I set about cutting and drilling out the backing plates for the winch bases. The Far Reach originally had only primary sheet winches. Only the port side winch had a backing plate (the only one the "owner" would be able to see). It was 1/4" aluminum. The starboard side winch was under the one piece head liner and not visible. I don't remember there being an access to the nuts. Anyway, the starboard side winch had just washers and nuts. Criminal.
Next, I drilled the holes for all four winch bases down through the deck and the filler plugs I previously installed. All the holes lined up nicely. I had just enough light to temporarily install the winches on the starboard side. Tomorrow, I will install the port side winches. Once I have test fit the backing plates, I'll start taping and preparing to bed the bases and winches for final installation.
Below:
1. I clamped the base in place and over the solid plugs in the deck I previously made.
2. I used the base as a guide to drill down at the proper angle. I installed the bolts as I went to ensure all the holes remained lined up.
3. One of the bronze bolts heads just made contact with the gears on the #44 primary winch so I filed the edge and top slightly.
4. I lightly filed the inside edge of the bolt so it no longer made contact with the gear.
5. The #10 staysail winch temporarily installed.
Continuing with the installation of the winches, I first needed to cut an additional inch of threads on the 1/4" bronze FH bolts. To do that I clamped the bolts in my bench vise and used a standard 1/4-20 die to extend the threads down the shaft. I have cut a lot of threads during the rebuild and though there are a few tricks it really is pretty simple. The key is to clamp the bolt securely, use some lubricant such as cutting fluid, and don't turn the die to quickly. I normally make 1/4 of a turn, back 1/8th of a turn, then turn forward 1/4 turn, then back 1/8th and so on and so forth. It goes pretty quickly. I kept an eye on the heat build up and took my time. Next, I wrapped a little tape around the end of the bolts, marked them with a sharpie, and used a hack saw to cut one inch off the end of the bolt. I cleaned up the ends with a mill file. They were ready for test installation.
Below:
1. I marked on the bolts shaft how far I wanted the threads to extend. Then, I clamped the bolt firmly in the vise and spun the die on to the threads.
2. I fit the handle over the die. I make short turns and after each foward turn to the right, I back up 1/8th of a turn to clear the shavings from the die. I use cutting fluid which reduces the friction and helps a little to reduce the heat build up.
3. Before.
4. After.
Next, I took the bases, pads, winches, bolts, nuts, backing plates and tools up the boat. I had to lightly ream out a few of the holes to get a proper fit without any binding but I was very pleased with the overall fit. I spun on the nuts and lightly tightened them to make sure everything would be ready for the final install. Next, I took spent about 45 minutes tapping off the winches in preparation for applying the bedding compound tomorrow. I had to reposition the winches from the original location due to the addition of the staysail winches. Originally, the stay sail was self tending and the line snaked down the cabin top and terminated at a number 8 winch. I eliminated the self tending boom because I think it is a hazard to anyone on the foredeck and it makes it impossible to get good sail shape. Because of the longer bowsprit I could afford to move the sheet leads for the staysail to the side deck, near the cabin top bottom edge, and still have a sheet angle three degrees less than the jib. The sheets, however, will run down the side deck, near the cabin top and run to the Lewmar number 10 winches mounted just forward of the Lewmar 44 two speed primary winches. It's not a perfect solution but it was the best of the options I could come up with. It will make trimming the sails a lot easier when there is only one person on deck. You can stand with the tiller between your legs and reach all the winches without any required acrobatics.
Below:
1. The new winch location has the winches a little further foward which works better with a tiller.
2. The new 6 3/4" tall bulwark required that I add riser pads to the winches to ensure I had the proper "up" angle on the sheet lead to the winch drum. The smaller forward winch is for the staysail.
3. A pictue of the 1/4" G 10 backing plates.
4. The winches taped off for bedding compound.
With Gayle's able assistance, I was able to complete the installation of the winches. Bedding the multiple parts of the base, riser pad, and winch requires some dexterity and thoughtful planning. Adding to the difficulty is the necessity of removing the drum in order to run the bolts through the winch flange exposing the freshly cleaned and greased innards of the winch. To do this I covered the exposed spindle with a zip-lock bag. We work well together so it was pleasant work. We used a combination of butyl rubber to make thin "donuts" around the bolts where they pass through the chamfered holes in the various parts. The rest was bedded with teak colored polysulfied caulk. We scrapped up the squeeze out wearing latex gloves and using a yellow "Dap" scoop and West System beveled plastic stir stick. We cleaned up minor smears with paper towel wetted with paint thinner. It's great to have the winches installed.
All four headsail sheet winches are installed.
Winch Cleats
It was time to install cleats to support the sheet winches. I wanted to install bronze ones as they would require less maintenance but I could not find the Herreshoff style that I was looking for at a reasonable price. So, I decided to make them out of some well seasoned white oak I had on hand (locust is the preferred wood but I did not have any). It took about three hours to make four cleats. I need two to support the self tailing primary winches and two for the secondary stay-sail sheet winches that I added as part of the rig redesign. I looked at pictures of Olin Stephen's Dorade to get an idea of what I needed to build (see the gallery below with pop up text). In my perfect world these cleats would require no maintenance. Oak is very hard and strong but not so rot resistant. So, they will need to be varnished. I think that will be OK for these cleats as they aren't the same as deck cleats which experience a lot of friction. I will apply new coats of varnish the same time the coaming gets a coat of varnish. Note: I would have liked to install the fasteners from the cleat into the coaming, but I did not feel like I would have enough wood depth to ensure the cleats were strongly fastened. So, I installed the fasteners from the coaming into the cleat. I did not want to deeply counter sink and plug the heads of the screws in case I need to remove the cleats. I will varnish right over the head of the screw. Oak is very hard and you have to be carefully installing fasteners into it.
The white oak cleat is angled down 10 degrees to ensure a fair lead. They will be varnished and will match the oak tiller
Below:
1. I cut the cleat patterns from 1 1/4" thick X 1 1/2" wide white oak. I built a half pattern for the cleat. Trace the pattern, then flip it over and trace the other side. That way, you get a mirror image. I cut the inside corners with a 1/2" paddle bit being careful to drill from both sides to avoid tear out.
2. I drilled the inside corners with the paddle bit after I traced the pattern but before I cut the patterns out from the white oak stock. Then, it was simply a matter of using my cabinet rasps and apprasive paper to smooth them out. I radiused the edges with a 1/4" round over bit in my bench top router. More standing and filing and they were ready for fitting.
3. I decided on a 10 degree down angle for the cleats to ensure a fair lead. I taped the coaming up and traced the base of the cleats with a pencil.
4. I made a little jig to ensure I had the right spacing for the fastener holes. I only drilled in to the mahogany about 1/8" -- just enough to mark the holes.
5. Then, I clamped on a home made drill guide to ensure I drilled the hole straight and square.
6.
7. The problem a lot of people have with slotted fasteners is their screw driver does not fit the slots. These are often called gunsmith bits. Note the tips of the slotted bits are scalloped so the sides are square in the bit. Also, the kit comes with lots of different sizes so you can get a very precise fit.
8. I chamfered the holes to allow the flat head fastener to fit flush.
9. I used three different bits to ensure I acheived a proper tapered profile to fit the bronze #12 x 2" bronze wood screw. Oak is very hard and you have to be carefully installing the fasteners or you can break them off. I coated the ends in wax to lubricate them before installed them.
10. This is one of the four installed cleats. Once they were all installed, I removed them for varnishing.
Installing The Oak Cleats. Gayle applied about six or seven coats of varnish last week. The look great. Mounting them was pretty straight forward. Before we varnished them I mounted them to check for fit and location, so all the drilling was already accomplished. I also applied some varnish to the chamfered holes on the insdie of the coamings while the cleats were being varnished. So, today was simple. I once again mounted them and the taped the area off for the bedding process. I then removed the cleats. I filed the bevels of the fasteners to eliminate any burns that might tear the wood as the fastener is tightened down. I applied some wax to the threads, applied Boat Life mahogany colored polysulfied then installed the cleat. I cleaned up the squeeze out with mineral spirits (you should not use acetone on varnish) and removed the tape. Four cleats. Task complete.
I taped off the cleat with 3m 233 tape.
The heads of the fasteners are exposedon the inside face of the coaming. I filed the underside of the bevels to make sure they were smooth to protect the wood as I tightened down on them.
The oak cleats are installed. They match the oak tiller.
Winch Rebuild (Updated 6 Feb 2014)
I spent a couple of hours removing winches and some hardware from the mast and boom. Most of the hardware came off easily enough but a couple of pieces were stubborn and required a propane torch and PB Blaster to be convinced to let go of the mast. Then, I spent about two hours disassembling the winches and performing an initial cleaning in a mineral sprit bath. I don’t think they have ever been cleaned and they were pretty gummed up but they seemed to clean up nicely.
I dissasembled the winches and performed an initial cleaning in a bath of mineral spirits.
I have one broken #7 winch that I will need to replace. Interestingly, the bottom half of the spindle that the winch turns on is plastic for the #7 and below. They seem to be all metal for #8 and up. My #7 winch was broken (cracked spindle) when the mast was in storage. So, I will need to replace that one. I have a couple of spare bronze #7s that I could be substituted but I had been thinking I would use them in conjunction with the running backstays that I intend to install. I will take a look at the consignment shops and see what they have. I am not at all interested in replacing these winches as they are very expensive and anyway I would be tempted to replace them with self tailing winches and I already know that is not in the budge. I have ST #44 Lewmars for the primary winches and that is where they really show their value. Anyway, I’ll keep my eyes open for used winches.
Two years I performed a light cleaning of the two pirmary winches but I did not take them all the way apart. And, even though they were covered they still picked up a lot of dust and grit in the shop. So, as part of the preparation for reinstalling them I took all eight winches apart, to include the primaries, but this time I diassembled them completely, cleaned them thoroughly in a solvent bath, greased and lubed them, and reassembled them. This included two Lewmar #44 two speed self tailing winches, four #10 single speed standard winches, and two #8 single speed standard winches. All the winches have bronze hubs and spindles. I won't cover the details of winch cleaning as there is a lot of information available on the internet and each winch brand and model has it's own unique design. My primary sources were my own experience, the Lewmar Maintenance Guide, and Compass Marine website which has a lot of great information with photos. I used kerosene as a solvent, plastic pails of different sizes, a chip brush, a tooth brush, a tooth pick, a dental probe, and lots of rags. I disassemble the winch one at a time, scrub them in the solvent bath (these were very dirty and grimy, and wipe them dry with the rags. I inspected them carefully and reassemble them after lightly greasing the gears, bearings, and spindles with Lewmar winch grease (applied with an acid brush) and 5-30 synthetic motor oil (the same oil I use in my vehicles) for the pawls and springs applied with a Q tip. It's not hard work but it is tedious and time consuming. All the winches were in very good shape except for one area--there is a lot of galvanic corrosion on the underside of the # 44 aluminum ST disks that sit on top of the bronze hubs. This was a terrible design by Lewmar to allow these two very incompatible metals to have direct contact with each other. There was so much corrosion in fact that chucks of the underside of the ST disks have simply been eaten away. Lewmar no longer carries parts for these winches as they have long since been replaced by newer designs. It's a real shape as other than this one area the winches are in very good condition. I'd like to replace them but new winches of a similar size (Lewmar 40s) cost about $1600 to $2000 each. Also, I would have to build new bases and risers since the 40s have a different hole pattern . . . of course. I used a liberal amount of "Teff-Gel" to help isolate the metals from each other and hopefully slow any further corrosion. I completed the cleaning of the winches. I'll start installing the primary and secondary winches tomorrow. I'll set the remaining winches aside until I turn my attention to the mast and rig.
Below:
1. This is a very dirty winch. I stripped it all the way down to individual gears.
2. Slow, careful, methodical work is essential when rebuilding winches.
3. This winch has been taken apart, cleaned, greased and oiled, and put back togehter. it is ready for the hub.
4. Job complete.
5. In this photo you can see the galvanic corrosion between the aluminum self tailing disk and the bronze hub.
Installing Richie BN 202 Navigator Compass
It was time to mount the compass (see photo gallery below). It was not a particularly difficult project but there were important steps. We did not spend a lot of time thinking about where to install it as it seemed pretty obvious where it needed to go. The companionway is offset to starboard so installing it to port seemed the best place as it put the compass closer to the centerline. It also meant that the back of the cabin top, on port and starboard sides, would be more comfortable for lounging against if the compass were out of the way. The only question was how high or low to place it and we spent a minute or two discussing it making sure we had good vision of the lubber lines from a seated and standing position then moved forward to the next step. I taped the back of the cabin side in the area to be cut with 3M 233 tape to help protect the paint when the teeth of the saw would start cutting in to the fiberglass. I installed a 10" long 1/4" drill bit in lieu of the shorter stock pilot bit. This was necessary as the compass behind the mounting ring is angle down 20 degrees (in other words what is behind the globe and mounting ring is not perpendicular to the mounting ring itself). Richie, the manufacturer of the compass, instructed that the mounting ring needs to be vertical/perpendicular to the water line. Since the back of the cabin top is angled forward that meant I need to have a beveled fairing block between the compass mounting ring and the cabin top to ensure the correct angle. A few days earlier, I glued two short pieces of Burmese Teak together with resorcinol adhesive for the purpose of making the fairing block. Now, I took the finished plank and ran it through the planer to ensure it was flat. Then I determined the bevel to cut by taking the plank to the boat and scribing a line on the sides of the plank corresponding to the required bevel. Next, I clamped the inverted plank on my work table and began removing wood with a power planer. Once I was close to the scribe line I transitioned to a block plane. I check for flatness with a straight edge then, when satisfied, I cleaned it up with a belt sander. Next, I used a compass to draw the inside and outside circles and cut just wide of the lines with my Bosch jig saw. I cleaned up the edges on the bench top sander. I routered the outside edges with a 1/4" round over bit. I cut small indentation on the inside of the faring ring for the lighting wires (though I currently have no 12 volt system). In the middle of all this I made a few trips up and down the ladder to check the fit of the block. I finished up the block by cutting a "caulking groove" in the back side of the ring with a small cove bit installed in my trim router. With the block cut, I took it to the boat and positioned it with double sided tape. Satisfied with the location I marked the center of the hole. I removed the trim ring, then drilled a starter hole. I cut a 20 degree angle on a 5" long piece of 1/4" ply to serve as a guide for the downward cut I would need to make with the hole saw so the bevel of the hole would match the angle of the guts of the backside of the compass. I cut the hole, first from the cockpit side, then back through from the inside out relying on the pilot hole to make sure the holes were matched from both sides. It came out perfect. Next, I drilled holes in the trim ring for four fasteners and counter sunk them for 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" flat head, self tapping, SS screws. I previously tested the screws with a magnet and against the compass itself to make sure it would not cause any deviation. Once I installed the fairing block it was a simple matter to install the compass. I will wait a few days before I bed the compass and fairing block to allow the teak to adjust to the increased outside humidity (the teak had been stored in my air conditioned shop). Having the compass in the boat helps the cockpit to look more finished. A later project will be to install a varnished wood box over the back of the compass that protrudes into the main cabin.
Below:
1. I used a 4 3/4" hole saw with an extended 1/4" bit to cut the hole.
2. It was not a big deal to cut the hole. It was the only logical place to install it. We tapped off the fiberglass, installed a long 1/4" bit in the 4 3/4" hole saw, and angled the cut 20 degrees to match the back of the compass.
3. I glued to pieces of teak plank together with resorcinal glue, shaped it to a wedge, and cut a caulking groove in the back.
4. The compass installed. We moved it towards the center line of the boat to free up the back of the cabin side for comfortable lounging.
5. Mounting the compass helps the boat have a more finished look.
Dyneema Life Lines
Synthetic Life Lines. A while back I ordered about 90' of 1/4" Amsteel Blue dyneema line to use as life lines. It cost about half of what Dynex Dux from Colligo Marine. Dux is a great line but I thought is extreme low "creep" was overkill for life lines. I think the breaking strength of the Amsteel Blue is about 10,000 lbs, which is far more than the stanchions can bear. It was time to install the life lines. This is a good place to mention that Evans Starzinger has posted a tremendous amount of information on research he has been doing on running rigging. This is the link I used to gather info about installing synthetic lifelines. This is a link to the line load testing data base they are posting on their website. I decided to use a modified brummel splice I learned watching a very well done video put out by John Franta at Colligo Marine. It was easy to follow and the splice is very simple. I started off by making a standard modified brummel on one end. I also lock stitched it, though I don't know if that is really necessary. Anyway, I "cow hitched" the loop around a shackle I installed in the kranze iron and then ran the line back through the stanchions to the cockpit. Next, I spliced an eye around a fat 7mm SS thimble. The Colligo Marine explained how to make a modified brummel around a thimble as well so it was also pretty simple. I had some short lengths of 1/4" sta-set that I used to temporarily draw the lifelines tight. I will install new lashing soon, once I figure out what I want to use. This was simple project that anyone can do. I am not thrilled about terminating the life-line to the shackle on the top of the kranze iron but it is the best solution I can come up with for now. I would prefer to install "shouldered eye bolts" in place of the shackle pins in the shackles that hold the spritshrouds to the kranze iron but I have not had time to pursue that course of action. I'll look into it at some point.
The modified brummel splice on the aft end of the life lines. The lashing is temporary scrap 1/4" sta-set.
I spliced cow hitches in the forward end of the lines and attached them to a shackle on the kranze iron.
Brummel spliced eyes cow hitched to the kranze iron.
Updated 7 May 2015: In the photo you can see I made a double inverstion in the brummel eye splice. The splice should be smooth from where the eye is formed all the way to the end of the taper. You can clearly see the lump. Once I recognized it, it was a simple matter to cut the whipping, pull the splice apart and resplice it correctly. There is a critical step in the modified brummel that if you miss you will end up with the double inversion. I previously terminated the forward end of the lifelines to a shackle inserted through the aft most hole on the top of the cranze iron (see above entry). I was not really happy with the location. I looked for along time for bronze threaded eye bolts with a solid shaft that I could tap threads into and substituted it for the original threaded shackle pin that also secure the sprit-shroud stays. I did find a couple of candidates but they were about $60 each and I would still have had to cut the threads. I recently ran across some 316 SS eye bolts with a solid shank. The solid part was too long and the total length of the bolt was about three inches long. So I asked Jim Bircher as Bitcher Inc Machine Shop in Morehead City if he would cut them to length and cut new threads to fit my 3/8" shackles. I think he did a nice job. I think this is a much better location as it takes the life lines away from the cranze iron where the jib tack is secured and reduces the likelihood of chafe on the lifelines.
I installed 3/8" diameter 316 SS eye bolts into the spritshroud stay shackles to better anchor the forward end of the life lines.
I removed the life lines when we transported the boat to the boat yard. I decided to sew on some chafing guards where the line passes through the stanchions as the holes have ruff edges, even after I file them smooth. Some folks use rubber fuel line or plastic hose inserted in the stanchion holes. But, I think the leather looks nice and is traditional. Best, I bought a lb of leather at the local fabric store for $5. And it was very easy to sew them on. I cut the pieces about 1 1/2" long and about 1 1/8" wide. I used #4 waxed sailmakers thread. It took about fine minutes to sea each guard on. Very simple. They are snug on the line but I can move them. It will be interesting to see how they hold up. I'd like to replace the leather with brass sailmaker rings where the life line runs across the cap and upper intermediate shrouds. I'd run the line right through the thimbles and then use whipping to lash the rings to the shrouds. But, that will have to be a project for another day.
I sewed chafing guards to protect the dyneema where it passes through the stanchions.
I bought about a 5 ft of leather for $5. The quality seems pretty good. The color is grey so it is subdued, which I like.
I used #4 wax sailmakers thread, though I tested some #2 which is what I think is depicted here.
The guards on on quite snug but they can be moved. I'd like to replace the leather for sailmakers thimbles where the lifeline crosses the cap and intermediate shrouds.
Boom Gallows
The last two weeks were focused on the solar panel which I completed a few days ago. Then, I immediately transitioned to installing the boom gallows which I wanted to install before we make an offshore passage. I have thought about the gallows for years. Originally, I wanted the gallows at the aft end of the boom which offered a number of benefits, but it clobbered the cockpit. If the boom were a foot or 18" longer that would have been the best way to go. The next option was to install it on the cabin top over the companionway (it would be out of the way) but that would have necessitated bolting them through the cabin top. I did not like that idea--too easy for water to get into the cored cabin top. Also, to do it right, the core would need to be cut out and replaced with a solid filler as the lever arm of pulling on the pipe would stress, and possibly, crack the top skin of the deck. Thus, the strongest most sensible solution was to bolt the support base flanges through the side of the cabin top. I saw the this particular set up in stainless steel on Jim Kellam's well known Spencer 35 Haulback several years ago. Then, recently I saw a bronze set up on K. Chiswell's CD 33 which seemed to address our needs. Chiswell was kind enough to tell me that he purchased the components at Port Townsend Foundry. I called Cathy at PTF and she got the ball rolling. We had to wait about three weeks to get the parts which include the "hardened" brass pipe. My sister Patricia was a huge help throughout the gallows install. Not only did I need an extra set of hands--she is also boat savy and mechancially minded-- she made the work fun, which I needed as I was running out of steam with another complicate multi-part project. First, I determined the bevel required for the support blocks to make the gallows pipes vertical (if not vertical there would be no way to remove the assembly with out disassembling the component . . . nor would you be able to shorted or lengthen the pipes as a non vertical angle would cause the span dimensions to change). Second, I cut 8/4 teak blocks to the proper length and scribed the required bevel. I resawed the blocks and cut the bevel at the same time on a friends band saw. I used the cast off side of the cut for the backing block on the inside of the cabin since it was a reverse image of the outside block. I made a couple of trips to the boat to confirm the angles. Third, I pre drilled the holes through the blocks on my bench top drill press. Fourth, I used a simple jig to align the holes and keep them perpendicular as I drilled through the cabin side. Fifth, I over drilled the holes on the inside of the cabin with a 1/2" diameter drill bit and then filled the enlarged holes with thickened epoxy allowing the "plugs" to cure overnight. Sixth, I drilled back through the plugs with a 3/8" bit insuring no wood grain was exposed to the bolt holes and preventing water egress into the plywood cabin side. I bedded the bronze plate to the teak block with Dolphinite bedding compound and bedded the blocks to the fiberglass cabin side with butyl rubber. It was a math rubic's cube to figure out the correct height for the pipes but we finally solved it by laying out the components on the garage floor and mocking it up. Then, with the pipes installed and spanned by a simple 1/4" plywood jig we were able to figure out where exactly to cut the pipes. We used a composite cut off wheel that fit my 12" Dewalt chop saw to cut the pipes square. I bought the blade at a welding supply shop for $8. We then used the jig to trace the pattern for the arched span and used that to mark out the pattern on the Iroko. In the attached photo the spanning jig only has the arch on the top line--we needed the jig straight across the bottom to determine the cut line on the pipes. But the bottom line on the Iroko will have a bottom line to match the camber of the top curve. The set up seems very strong and bolted through with six 3/8" bronze carriage bolts it isn't going anywhere. It will make a hell of a hand-hold when offshore. I suspect it won't take the kids long to figure out the gallows will make a terrific platform to leap from into the water. I chose Iroko for the span timber as it is very rot resistant, I can get it down the street at World Timber, and cost $6 a BF vice nearly $28 a BF for Burmese teak. I'll start milling the Iroko tomorrow.
I cut these blocks on a band saw. They were 8/4 teak off cuts. I used the opposing side of the bevel cut to form a backer block on the inside of the cabin. In the photo above I am using a walnut jig to serve as a guide to ensure I drill perpendicular to the brronze base.
The pipe are "hardened brass" as recommended by Port Townsend Foundry. I cut the pips on my chop saw with a composite blade for cutting metal. I bought the blade at a welding supply store for $8. It worked very well.
I used a piece of 1/4" ply as a template to make sure everything was lined up. After checking that all the measurements are sqaure and plump I removed the template and took it home for use on shaping the 8/4 iroko plank that will comprise the top cross member. The bottom edge of the iroko will curve to match the top edge and not be flat as depicted in the photo above.
Boom Gallows Continued.
I spent most of the day focused on milling and laying out the Iroko plank for the boom gallows. Explanations of each step are embedded in the photo gallery below. It's a tricky project because the gallows are a little different on each end and on each side. By that I mean the gallows frame is 1 5/8" thick and the edge of one side/face of the frame is not a mirror image of the opposite side on the same frame. That makes laying out the jig/template a little more complicated. The template for one side will not fit the opposite side (not the other end but the other face of the same frame). So, I made a full length template for the forward face and two short templates for the aft face. I will need to go very slow and take my time. This would be simple if I wanted to paint the gallows timber-I'd just coat the ends in thickened epoxy and mold an exact fit. Then, paint the timber and the epoxy filler. I could also do the same thing if I wanted to varnish the timber--I'd use wood dust as the thickener and T88 epoxy which would look very wood-like in color. On the other hand, the bronze will get very hot in the tropics and that is not idea ideal epoxy. But, I'd like to leave the plank bare and that means the fit has to be very good to look good.
Below:
1. I brought the template home and used it to rough cut the 12' long plank of Iroko. I took it to a friends house and hused his band saw to cut it down to 6" wide and about 74" long. That allowed me to run it over my 6" wide jointer, then through the planer.
2. I laid out stations on the template and used them to ensure a uniform curve which I cut out with a jig saw.
3. I used the full length timplate to make the jig for the forward side of the gallows.
4. I used short sections to make the jig for the aft side of the gallows since they are not mirror imaged.
5. I traced out the basic arch on the Iroko and set everthing aside for the next day.
