Installing the Galley and Nav Station

Installing the Galley

The galley turned out to be more complicated than anticipated. The measurements are critical if everything is going to fit properly. I found it difficult to accurately measure such a big space. I decided to return to my base line measurement for everything I have installed on the boat--I ran a string down the centerline and started measuring from there. The one thing I could not change was the size of the stove. I pulled my old Seaward stove out. I bought the propane conversion kit a long time ago thinking I would keep it. Though I think it has a lot of miles left in it, for many reasons, it made the most sense to buy a new stove. We knew we wanted the stove to be a fixed mount vice a gimbaled stove. Why? You can survive a lot of injuries . . . bones can be set, lacerations can be sewn up, etc . . . but burns are horrendous. I have seen some bad burns in the Marines and it left a big impression on me. Though I have never done so, I have read that sailors are advised to wear a full length rubber apron when cooking while sailing off-shore with a gimbaled stove. And, with children on the boat we are more willing to go to the extra effort to reduce the potential for burns. We think installing a fixed mount stove that is oriented fore-and-aft should reduce the likelihood for the a pot of hot something being dumped on a member of the crew. There are some tradeoffs. Access to some cabinet space is more difficult. We will have to use deeper pots and perhaps not push the boat as hard as we might otherwise while meals are being prepared. We might need to carry a small removable one burner gimbaled burner we can also mount fore-and-aft when we need it. All-in-all we think it's worth it . . . at least we hope so.
So, I decided on the Force 10 Model 15331, fixed mount propane stove. This particular stove is only being made for a few more months. Soon, Force 10 will only make a gimbaled stove. If you want to fix mount it you'll have to buy an optional fixed mount accessory kit. But the oven and burner top will be about an inch narrower for the same box sized space. Last year they changed the design of the stove to put the big single burner up front and the two smaller burners to the rear. This makes a lot of sense. It looked odd to me when I first saw it. The main course meal is often in a single large pot and it is easier to tend up front. Also, it's easier, and safer, to lift one big pot to the front burner vice to the back of the stove. This is also a pretty good looking stove. In the picture below it is still protected by the plastic sheeting but it's all SS--no black face plate under the knobs or wooden handle. The fit and finish are very good. The nicest part was the cost. I don't normally buy from West Marine, but I was able to get this stove for about 40 percent off. It was too good a deal to pass up.
With the stove measurements on hand, I was able to determine where things needed to go. I built the template and installed the cabinet face panel for the base of the main galley cabinet. Because we wanted as much of the stove as possible over the flat cabin sole we cut back the landing under the companionway ladder to move the stove inboard another inch. This also allows us to create a one inch gap between the stove and the main galley cabinet base to incorporate a sliding door to access the under counter storage areas. I think it will be much easier to use a sliding door in the U shaped galley than to fight with swinging cabinet doors while underway. Most of the sink is over flat cabin sole and with a toe kick it should be much more comfortable to use than the original Cape Dory set up.
Next, I built a mock up of the stove and sink basin to check the ergonomics. Gayle spent some time there going through the motions of being in the galley to see if it would work to her liking. She gave it a thumbs up with some minor adjustments. We picked out a sink so we know how big the cabinet base for the sink needs to be. Then, today I cut the plywood panel for the starboard (inboard) side of the stove but did not install it. I decided that I need to complete the bracing for the galley cabinet face panel before I install the stove panel to make sure the measurements are consistent. So I finished off the day by building templates for the bracing system.

Below: 1. A fixed mount, Model 75331, Force 10, North American Standard, three burner propane stove and oven. 2. Building the template for the galley cabinet face panel. 3. Taking measurements to determine where and how to enlarge the space for the stove. This is one of the advantages to being able to remove the entire cabin sole--you can get to everything. 4. Building the template for the starboard side panel for the stove box. 5. A down and dirty mock-up to check the fit of the new galley. The stove position is next to the companion way ladder. 6. Another view of the galley mock-up. There is a toe-ckick under the galley sink. There will be storage under the oven.

Today I took the patterns for the divider supports for the galley cabinets, that I made yesterday, and traced them on the remainder of the 1/2" ply left over from building the the fore and aft support for port side of the stove. I made the patterns with strips of doorskin that I cut 1 1/2" wide on the table saw. Then, I glued them together with a hot glue gun to create the shape to properly fit between the cabinet base panel and the hull. After tracing them on the plywood I used a sliding bevel gauge to determine the angle of the hull against the 90 degree oriented divider. I used my Bosch jig saw to cut out the pattern. I cut an eight degree bevel on the curved portion of the divider to mirror the shape of the hull where the divider will be positioned. Next, I positioned the "divider" and used a compass to scribe it for a tighter fit. I used the jig saw to trim away the marked portion. Once I was satisfied with the fit, I used the compass to mark off 3/8" back from the curved edge of the divider to accommodate the 3/8" closed cell foam wedge that I like to fit between the divider and the hull. I test fit them again to make sure they fit properly.
Next, I marked the outline of the portion to be cut out from the center of the divider. Normally I would not do this but I need to be able to access into those compartment from the center sliding door. It's a little awkward but it would be even more difficult to only be able to access into the bottom for these lockers from a small "hatch" in the counter top. After cutting out the center section I routered the inside edge with a 1/8" round-over bit to give them a more finished appearance. To compensate for any loss of strength of the divider I will bolt on a 1 1/4" X 2" beam along the top edge of the divider which will have a half lap joint tied into the vertical cleat already glued and screwed to the cabinet face panel. You can see the vertical cleat in the photos to the right. The curved part of the plywood is 4" wide and will be epoxy taped with 1708 biaxial on each side of the divider. Later, I will epoxy tape in a narrow 3/4" okume horizontal shelf to the hull laying across these supports where they are epoxied to the hull. The ply will essentially act as reinforcing stringer. The 3/4" ash counters will butt up to the plywood shelf. Cabinets built over the counters will conceal the plywood "shelf."
Tomorrow I will tape in the "dividers," cut and fit the horizontal beams (cleats) that will be screwed and glued to the top edge of the dividers, and make final preparations for installing the fore and aft panel that will support the port side of the stove. Once that is complete I will turn my attention to installing a small amount of black walnut to the hull in the galley and across the floor beams over which the sink-cabinet will be built.

Templates made from strips of doorskin and a hot glue gun.

Test fitting the dividers. Note the foam wedge and the limber holes to allow any water that gets into the locker to drain forward and pass through another limber hole to the bilge sump area. I routered the inside edge of the cut-out with a 1/8" round-over bit.

If I wasn't convinced before, I am now . . . I think it would be a lot easier to build an interior in a bare hull vice reengineer, modify, and install a new interior in an old boat. Note to self: If I had to do it over, I would remove all the bulkheads in the boat to include the ones under the cockpit. Then start fresh. I made the mistake of leaving all the existing sound bulkheads in the boat and worked my interior plans around them. As much work as it would have been to install all new bulkheads I don't think it would have been as difficult as what I have had to deal with--endless grinding, constant modification, and head numbing math. As my Granddaddy used to say, "It's just one damn thing after another." Of course it would have been easier if I reinstalled a new interior based on the original layout but, for reasons explained elsewhere on this site, the original layout would not have worked for us.
Today I tabbed in the plywood vertical panel that will support the starboard side of the stove/oven. I cut the support from a 1/2" sheet of Okume ply several days ago but decided to install the dividers for the vertical galley cabinet panel before I installed the support for the stove. I planed a rabbet on both sides of the top edge that fit under the bridge deck so the biaxial would lay flush. I tabbed the bottom edges with two layers of biaxial--6" wide and 4" wide--because I wanted it to be extra strong given that it supports an 80 lb stove. The aft edge has a 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" cleat glued and screwed to the ply to help stiffen the panel. I will epoxy in a piece of ply to fill the open slot that you can see at the back of the compartment later.
The stove compartment has been difficult to install due to our desire to incorporate a sliding door on the vertical galley cabinet base between the sink and the stove. The door will slide back between the stove and the galley cabinet base. The measurements are critical and having never built one I have had to spend a lot of extra time diagramming out how I plan to construct it.

30 Dec 11Yesterday, I applied three coats of West Epoxy with 207 hardener to the plywood panel that will cover the hull in the galley area, which you can see in the photo. It was the first time I have used 207 hardener, which has some UV protection and is a low blush formula. I wanted to make sure there were no bubbles in the surface so I used a technique the West Systems tech rep recommended. After rolling the epoxy on, I tipped it out with a foam brush. Then I lit off a small propane torch and ran the tip of the flame across the surface back and fourth very quickly. I was instructed to cover a foot or 18" every second. Just a single pass every inch in width after each coat. It worked well.
Today, I focused on the galley sink cabinet. It took a ridiculously long time to come up with the right plan. After sorting out exactly where the plywood will be positioned (I will epoxy mahogany staving to the plywood) I cut the panels from some left over 1/2" okume 1088 ply. I clamped them in place and made up some simple cardboard templates for possible cabinet doors. The larger of the two doors is intended to slide back between the stove and the counter cabinet. The cabinet door on the sink cabinet will be hinged. Once the galley is sorted out, the panels are cut, and the cleats and panels are installed, I'll be ready to install the last of the staving. I thought I would be able to use my old "Gusher" foot pump for fresh water but I don't think is enough room. I'd like the toe kick to be at least three inches deep. Cape Dory 36, rebuilding a sailboat, installing cabinets.I clamped the parts together to see how they fit. The toe kick will extend through the fore and aft vertical panel.31 Dec 11I spent most of day on the road so I did not get to the boat till late in the afternoon. With the little time I had I marked and cut the toe kick under the galley sink cabinet. The original cabinet base did not have a toe-kick. I think a toe-kick under any cabinet, boat or home, is essential. It allows you to get your body close to the counter top and keep your center of balance without having to strain your back. It's not hard to make so I don't know why they are not standard on every boat. I also lowered the top edge of the right vertical panel of the sink cabinet. Lowering it makes it look a little less boxy. It also makes a "revel" with the back top edge. By that I mean that you intentionally off set the edge height since it can be very difficult making the corner trims match exactly. It is visually better to have them obviously off-set then very close but not perfect. I made a template and cut a piece of 1/4" ply for a template for the counter top for the sink cabinet to see how everything lined up. We discussed the location of the galley sink--centered in the cabinet or off set to the right so it is centered where you stand just to the right of the sloping hull. I think off-set may be best. I'll decide tomorrow or Monday. No boat work tomorrow . . . or at least very little.

I clamped the parts together to see how they fit. The toe kick will extend through the fore and aft vertical panel.

Cut the toe-kick, lowered the top edge of the right side panel, and fit a counter top mock-up.

1 Jan 11I was only able to devote about two hours to the boat today. My plan is to installed "inset," raised panel, cabinet doors. They are more difficult to build and to install correctly. The tolerances are much smaller than for overlay doors. They are certainly not necessary but to my eye it is a more elegant look which is part of the vision for the rebuild. So, I made a final decision on the size of the door. I then removed the front panel for the galley sink cabinet. If I were building "overlay doors, I could cut the opening out of the panel with a jig saw. But, the opening for inset doors has to be exact and square. Therefore, decided build what you might call rails and styles out of the plywood panel--though not really since those terms really refer to the door itself.
Test fitting the plywood frame.
Biscuit joining complete.My plan is to build the plywood backing (or frame) to which the mahogany staving is epoxied--just like the bulkheads. With the staving epoxied over/around a square opening I will be able to use a straight cut router bit with a guide bearing to trim the staving to a perfect match (I use the word "perfect" with fear") to the square opening in the plywood frame. If all goes well, I should be able to make a square raised panel door (with proper rails and stiles) which will then fit exactly. Of course all the parts are varnished otherwise the swelling of the wood would jam the doors in the frame. I have made a number of inset doors over the years and they have not been difficult . . . you just have to be more precise. Of course all this takes more time and any errors are plainly visible and more difficult to address. After cutting the plywood "rails and stiles" I cut slot for biscuits. After test fitting, I epoxied them together with slightly thickened West Systems epoxy. I double checked to make sure they were square before I let them cure overnight.

Test fitting the plywood frame.

Biscuit joining complete.

2 Jan 11Today I cut the hole for the opening to the portside galley cabinet base. Access will be gained via a sliding door that will slide aft between the cabinet and the stove/oven. I cut the hole by tracing around a template I made from 3/16" scrap plywood. Then I cut the ply about 1/8" inside the line with a jig saw. Next I clamped a guide bar I made from scrap 1/2" ply and used a router with a guide bearing between the blade and the jig saw to trim it flush to the line all around. I then temporarily clamped in place the frame I made last night for the galley sink cabinet base. The sink base will have a hinged door. Since I had a mess going I went ahead and trimmed the top of the partial bulkhead that frames the aft side of the chart-table/icebox and cut back the longitudinal bulkhead that separates the Q-berth from the old engine compartment. I spent the rest of the day cleaning up the boat and the shop in preparation for the big freeze coming our way. Temps are supposed to hit 16 degrees here in the next two days which is very cold for coastal NC.

The cabinets are temporarily clamped together to check for ergonomics.

The opening for the portside galley cabinet.

10 Jan 12I cleaned up the staving for the galley panels--routered the edges and clamped the panels in place to check for fit. I also routered the staving edges for the aft side of the nav station/ice box. I cut the staving to fit the plywood face panel for the nav station/ice box and sorted some staving for the next installation. Then, the plug gave out on the shop vac I use in the Far Reach. There was an electric arc in the plug when I unplugged the vacuum. This is the second time . . . it might have bee lose prong but I was not sure. The last thing I need is for the shop vac to catch fire. So, I cut the plug off and went to Lowe's to buy a new plug for the 15 year old Sears shop vac. Three hardware stores later, I finally found a two pronged, polarized, plug. I took it home and wired it in to the vacuum cord. It seems to be running fine.

Test fitting the galley panels.

11 Jan 12Before I can complete the installation of the staving in the galley area I had to finish installing the plywood panel that covers what would otherwise be the exposed fiberglass hull. The photo from yesterday's post clearly shows the plywood that fits between the galley vertical panels and the walnut sole. The problem was that the plywood was just laying on the hull and the hull is not flat so it rocked when you stepped on it. It was time to glass in ribs for the panel to sit on which, if raised, would also allow any water that made its way under the panel to continue on down the hull to the bilge. This project turned out to be more complex than I anticipated. There were various angles to deal with and the Iroko ribs needed to be cut with different tapers to accommodate the changing curve of the hull. After I collected the data I cut the Iroko and test fit them several times. When I was satisfied with the fit, I mixed up thickened epoxy and pressed them into place. I covered the "ribs" with thin plastic and pressed the panel down into position. I left the epoxy to cure and spent some time installing more staving. Later, I lifted the panel and brushed on epoxy to completely seal the ribs.

Glassing in "ribs" to support the plywood that covers the exposed hull.

13 Jan 12Yesterday I precut the staving for the face of the galley storage cabinet base. I used mostly off-cuts from other staving projects. It required some planning and measuring to ensure the vertical edges of the staving above and below the opening would remain aligned. I also had to cut a compound bevel on the bottom edge of the staving--to match the angle of the hull from forward to aft as well as inboard to outboard. It was not difficult but it needed to be accounted for. It took about an hour to set everything up in the boat (since I have been applying the staving to detachable plywood panels in the woodshop for the last week--and then only about two hours to apply the staving. In the photo, the staving has just been applied. Tomorrow, I will remove the screw-block clamps, drill countersinks, and install wood plugs. After the glue for the plugs has dried, the plugs will be trimmed and then the staving sanded with 120 grit abrasive. I'll then use a jig saw to trim the saving to within about 1/8" of the edge of the plywood. I'll finish off by used a flush cut router with a guide bearing to trim the staving flush to the edge of the plywood.

22 Jan 12The last week has been all about staving. I started off milling what I hope is the last batch. Afterwards, I installed wood plugs in the galley panels and the quarterberth bulkhead staving. Then, I took some time to get a couple of coats of varnish on the newly installed panels in the forward cabin as well as the two panels for the galley sink cabinet (I was able to remove these two panels and varnish them indoors), and the quarter berth staving. I spent the last couple of days installing the staving around the companionway (photo gallery below has a few pictures). I still need to install staving on the inboard side of the quarterberth compartment. This is slow, boring, tedious work. It takes a lot of determination to keep going. Soon, we should turn the corner and it will start coming together.
No boat work tomorrow.

11 Mar 12Yesterday, I applied what may be the final coat of varnish to the cabin sides . . . at least I hope so. It came out OK . . . not great mind you, but good enough. I have to keep going. I also applied another coat to the sink cabinet base due to a "holiday" that occurred during the last coat that I could not live with. Today, I reinstalled the sink cabinet base with the newly varnished toe kick. I am please with the result.

Galley sink base installed with six coats of varnish. Later I will install oiled walnut trim.

The varnished toe-kick installed over the oiled walnut cabin sole.

Looking down into the sink cabinet base. Everything is removable.

I have spent some time over the last few months thinking about how best to use the space under the galley counter tops. Once I had a firm plan it seemed a straight forward project. I ripped some Doug Fir into suitable cleating stock and then used my laser level to make my marks, position the cleats and install them with #10 oval head screws or 1/4" pan head bolts as the situation required. It took several hours of tedious but not unpleasant work. I will probably use okume ply for the shelves but I will delay that project till later.

Looking forward from the aft most of the three port side galley storage lockers.

Looking aft from the middle of the three portside galley storage lockers.

After installing the horizontal cleats that support the shelves it was time to install the "cleat nubs" (that's what I call 'em anyway) that support the outboard edge of the shelves. This is not necessary if the shelf isn't very wide or if it won't be supporting much weight. I came up with the following technique after using a much more complicated method on the starboard cockpit locker. I started by determining the location where the nubs would be located by using a laser level and marked that spot with a "sharpie" marker. Next, I had to remove the paint and then abrade the hull. I could use my 4 1/2" high speed angle grinder but that is overkill and makes a huge mess. Instead I use a Norton Rapid strip. The Rapid Strip was suggested to me by one of the tech reps at West Systems Epoxy about a year ago when I was working on another project. He informed me that they have had better adhesion results with the rapid strip than with 80 grit paper when epoxying to fiberglass. What I like best is I can attach it to my cordless drill, it cuts through the Interlux Bilgekote paint quickly, and it abrades the fiberglass as well. I have good control and it does not make much of a mess. What's not to like about that? Next, I used my Starette "protractor head" on a small block of wood to determine the slope of the hull. I then cut small blocks of Doug Fir on my chop saw to the corresponding angle I determined with the protractor head. After test fitting, I performed an acetone wipe down and mixed up thickened epoxy. I trowled it on the block and pressed it into place. I formed fillets with the squeeze out and scooped up the rest. The next time I have the Bilgekote paint out I'll paint over the nubs. Pretty simple.

One of the "nubs" filleted in position with thickened epoxy. The number on the top is the degree of the slope of the hull in that area. In this case its 62 degrees.

The Norton Rapid Strip does a great job for this task.

The starette protractor head. This is a very handy device that I use often.

The opposite side of the protractor head has the index numbers.

Two more nubs in position. I made the marks after shooting a beam with my laser level.

Ash CountertopsToday I ripped, edge jointed, and glued up the main part of the counter top for the galley. I will build a frame around the edge that is raised about 1/4" to help keep spilled liquids from seeping over the edge of the counter top. I'll also install a fiddle along the inboard edge. I have designed the top to fit up to the edge of the cabinetry so the whole thing can be removed and replaced or repaired without removing the cabinetry. I jointed the edges with a router using the same technique I described in the 16 December 2012 post (or you can click here where I descibed it when laminating the icebox/chart table). I thought about ripping the flat sawn part of the 8"wide ash planks out then gluing up all edge grain wood. It would take twice as much wood with a lot of waste. I chose not to do that because I am not sure it is necessary. To ensure a flat surface I clamped both horizontally and then vertically as depicted in the picture. I applied packing tape over the edge of the wood clamps so they don't end up getting glued to the wood top.

Gluing up the ash countertop for the galley.The plan is to leave them bare and just scrub them with bleach water and a scrubby pad as required which sounds a little unusual at first blush. However, if they are varnished you are stuck with keeping them varnished and varnish is not very durable when it comes to the abuse counter tops endure. I have mixed feelings about bare ash counter tops. There are other options but Lin Pardey swears by bare ash and I have discussed it with her on several occasions. The countertops on Taleisin have lasted a long time. Left bare, they should remain light colored which is a nice contrast in an all varnished wood interior (the chart table is varnished however). We have a maple top work table I built in 2004 in the center of out kitchen. I have oiled the top once. It gets used many times every day. It has held up beautifully. So, I have high hopes for the ash counter tops. Oh, one more thing. This is a very inexpensive solution. I will have about $50.00 in the counter top. No other solution even close to that.
I have spend the last few days building the counter top for the galley. I am moving forward cautiously as I try to understand how the wood will move and how best to mitigate it. The gist of the issues are how to make a solid ash top with two panels to be joined perpendicularly to one another. That is one issue. Another is how to incorporate a raised "frame" to cover the end grain and capture spilled liquids, crumbs, or whatever. Overlaying these issues is how to accommodate the movement of the wood as it expands and contracts. Wood expands little to none lengthwise as the majority of movement is across it's width. The long panel top will expand and contract 'twartship. The short panel, under the sink, will expand and contract fore and aft. If I glue the frame to the panels and there is significant movement then something will have to give . . . most likely the panels will crack along the grain and the joints in the frame will open up. So, I have been thinking that I could make 1/2" deep dados in the frame and install the panels like a panel door. That way, the panels can expand and contract to their heart's content. Of course, if I do that, I can't use bedding compound or glue between the frame and the panels to keep liquids from seeping under the edge of the frame. I am not going to rush this project. Until I have a feel for the best way to achieve what I want I'll work around this project and move on to some others. I may even look into a stainless top for the small section under the sink or perhaps even some corian. The small section is 16"x23" so this should not be a big expense. But, there is no running down those options till after the New Year as all the shops around here are closed. Contrary to what some people think, varnish will not keep the wood from moving, only slow down the time it takes to move.

Gluing up the ash countertop for the galley.

You can see the rframe along the back of the counter top. The other sections are not in this picture. The front edge of the counter will have a nose band. The stove/oven will sit in the space on the left side of the picture.

Another view looking forward.

After installing walnut trim the seats for the settees it was time to go back to work on the galley counter tops. After a little more thinking I felt comfortable pressing ahead. I had originally planned to use bare ash under the sink but the Opella SS sink that I bought has a problem. The lip is not flat. It curves down on the ends and so it would not lay flush. I made numerous phone calls to Opella, leaving voice mails, and sent emails but they never responded. So, I won’t be buying an Opella product again. More on the flange later. I thought about having the bare ash with an under-mount sink and that might work. But, I figured the space is small and there is some wood movement issues with the wood frame surrounding this particular part of the counter. I also begin to have second thoughts about the bare ash around the sink. I looked into some granite and other options but it just didn’t feel right. The other day I stumbled onto a solid surface manufacturer up the road so I stopped in to chat. They ended up giving me an off-cut for free. The best part is it looks like real granite, much better than others I have seen—the crystals are random size and scattered. They make their own tops out in the work shop right behind the store front. It’s basically a Corian knock off. I was not sure it would look right but I thought I would give it a try since it is waterproof and bonds well with epoxy, etc. If it worked, it would solve the concerns I had and cost almost nothing. I made a template of the space and took the off-cut outside. I decided to lay out the template in such a way that I would have enough for a second one if I messed it up. I traced the lines and cut the top with my jigsaw leaving about 1/8” outside the line. It cut easily. Then, I used a straight edge and a pattern cutting router bit with the guide bearing at the top. I used my small laminate trimmer. Again, it cut easily and left a smooth line. I test fit the piece in the boat and it fit well. I liked the light color as it seemed to blend in with the ash counter top. Next, needed to make a template for the sink cut-out. I laid the sink upside down on a piece of scrap ¼” ply and traced around the inside lip by reaching through the drain hole. I cut along the line with my Bosh jig saw and then spent about 20 minutes sanding the edge smooth. With little room for error I spent some time carefully measuring how the sink needed to fit into the tight space I had to work with. Then, I clamped the pattern to the countertop and traced the line. I removed the pattern, drilled a 3/8” hole as a start point for my jigsaw well inside the line and cut about 1/8” to the inside of the line making the hole for the sink. Next, I clamped the pattern back in place and then used the router to smooth the edge. Pretty simple. Then, I used a ¼” round over bit to radius the edge. The inside edge was a little bumpy. I took some 400 grit wet/dry paper and a rubber block and sanded the edge with some water. It cleaned right up. I was amazed how easy the material was to work with. I went back over the edge with some 600 wet/dry lubricating it with water as I sanded. The manufacturer told me I could polish it if I wanted with a buffer and automotive polish. But, it looked fine to me . . . very smooth in fact. I test fit the top with the sink clamped in place and it looked good.
The flange. That darn flange was going to be a problem. This particular sink was designed to be either a drop in or under-mount. But, the flange lip was in the way of the different clamps ideas I was working with. What to do? I turned the sink upside down, clamped it in place and took my 4 ½” Makita high speed grinder with a heavy grinding wheel in it and just ground the downward turning lip off. It took about 30 minutes and made a hell of a racket. But, it came out looking fine. Tim Lackey gave me some tips on a bracket. I used some scrap teak and cut them to length. I drilled a ¼” hole in each end. With the sink clamped in place I flipped it upside down and made marks on the bottom. I used a 13/64” bit with a stop collar and drilled down through the teak cleat into the underside of the countertop. Then, I tapped the holes for ¼” bolts. I test fit the set up. I taped off the edge of the sink cut out and the sink as well with 3M 233 tape. I wiped the sink flange down with some acetone as well as the area on the counter top that would get bedded. I had a half tube of Boat Life white polysulfide on hand so I used it. I wanted to avoid silicone if possible plus the polysulfide would also provide some adhesive properties as well. I applied a thick bead and using the black sharpie marker outline of the sink flange on the under side of the counter I lowered the sink into position. I attached the cleats and snugged down the fasteners getting squeeze out all the way around. I scraped up the excess caulk then pulled the tape. There was no mess and a very clean line. In fact, with the counter an off white the caulk is barely visible. I left it to cure.

I ground the lip smooth with a high speed grinder.Below: 1. Minus the jig saw, these are all the tools I needed to cut the solid surface countertop. 2. I test fit the top. 3. I made the pattern for the sink but laying the sink upside down on scrap 1/4" plywood and reached through the drain hole to trace around the inside edge of the sink. 4. I placed the pattern on the countertop and traced the hole. 5. After cutting the hole with a jig saw and then smoothing it with a router pattern cutting router bit I test fit it in place. 6. I made some mock ups for trim to see how it would look. This is pine but I plan to use teak. 7. The flange lip, intended to allow the sink to be mounter as either a drop in or undermount, was in the way. It had to go. 8. I ground the lip smooth with a high speed grinder. 9. The cleats are scrap teak. I drill holes into the underside of the counter top and tapped them for 1/4" botls. 10. I used whille polysulfied bedding compound. It is practically invisible.

Next, I cut the teak for the trim around the sink. I used epoxy and clamped the teak in place overnight to cure. As I mentioned before, my preferred option was to install the sink over an ash counter with ash trim--the same as the workspace counter top to the left. But, since I used a solid surface under the sink I decided to trim it in teak. My thinking was that if the counter was going to be impervious to water I might as well use trim that was equally rugged. My only concern is there are several different colors/wood in a small space. The teak needs to be sanded to clean up the very light epoxy smudge and I need cut a very light radius on the aft peice of teak trim. I removed the clamps this morning and drilled the hole for the Fynspray brass galley faucet. I think the entire sink system is very practical. I'll have to let my eye get used to the different woods and colors before I decide if I like the look.

I taped everything off and appied straight epoxy and let it tack up before adding a thin coat of slightly thickened epoxy. Then, I clamped the pieces in place to cure overnight.

I temporarily installed the galley sik and counter. I drilled the hole for the Fynspray brass faucet.

Below: 1. I glued up the divider for the dish rack and applied five coats of varnish to both sides. 2. Under counter shelving. 3. The new shelf, looking aft. 4. The new shelves looking forward. 5. Laying out the fiddle for the port side galley counter top. 6. Another view. 7. Tonight I glued and screwed the fiddle to the counter top. It needs to be strong because it not only keeps stuff on the conter top from sliding off, it also serves as a hand hold.

Funny how things happen. Last night I was sure I would start work today on the shelving above the counter top. But, as soon as I entered the boat I decided I should test fit the stove. I have had the stove for well over a year. I had to buy it in order to install the bulkheads so I was sure everything would fit. It is a new model Force 10 that I picked up for about 50 percent discount. Anyway, I had all kinds of drawings in my binder that I made last year showing how everything would fit together to include the support cleats. I installed the cleats per the drawings. I unpacked the stove and Gayle helped me lug the beast up onto the boat. It dropped right into position and fit like a glove. Fantastic. By temporarily installing the stove I was able to confirm that everything fit as planned . . . was there ever any doubt? Ha. I can also better visualize how to address the design and installation of cabinetry behind the stove.

The stove fit perfectly. The large opening in the center of the photo will have a sliding door that will slide between the stove and the cabinet face.

Another view.

I am not exactly setting the world on fire this month but I have been working on the Far Reach everyday. Slow and steady wins the race or something like that. Anyway, I wanted to build the cabinet doors but for some reason I just was not mentally ready for that project. It has been cold, dark, and wet here this month. So, I worked on little projects that needed to be completed regardless the timing. Do them now or do them later, they have to be done. They fit my mental state. So, I installed a few deck fitting--aft intermediate chain plates, bow sprit shroud tangs, and the bobstay fitting. I installed mahogany staving around the galley stove, built a divider under it, and applied five coats of varnish. I build some dish rack dividers and varnished them. Lastly, I installed the LP gas system and a custom control handle for the gas valve.

The area around the stove is looking pretty good after 5 coats of varnish.

In between varnishing and sanding the cabinet doors I worked on the galley shelving. Gayle wanted the dinner ware (Corelle) on the bottom shelf. We had several long discussions about the galley lay out. We did not want a lot of cabinet doors as they cut off the flow of air and will make the boat fill small. Once we had a plan, I milled African Mahogany to about 5/8" thick and fit it in place for the vertical face. We marked where the hand slots need to be located and I built a pattern out of 1/4" ply. I traced the shape and cut it out with a jig saw then used a router with a pattern cutting bit guided by the original pattern that I clamped in place. I used a 1/4" round over bit to radius the edge. I used 1/2" okume ply for the upper shelves and cut a dado in the A. Mahogany vertical face. I glued and screwed the shelves into the dado. The lower aft shelf was tricky. We wanted a straight line on the tops of the shelves for symmetry. But, there was not a lot of room between the bottom of the top shelf and the top of the bottom shelf. What to do? I decided to hinge the lower vertical face with some brass butt hinges. That way, the lower shelf can be folded down and there is more room to place or removed objects from that space. We like the design so far. I still have some work to do to tidy it up. Completion of the galley shelves will have to wait till the cabinet doors are installed.

For the last few days I installed shelves and the cleats for the small cabinet door. It took some time but I wanted to be able to remove the cabinet door face frame if necessary. The fasteners are hidden and it is a simply job to remove them. I also installed cleats and the shelf for the area behind the stove. This is an awkward space as there is about 10"x25" of space behind the stove. I decided to make the shelf removable and I also installed a divider under the stove that separates the space. The space lends itself to a water tank which I estimate would be about 15-20 gallons . . . it's a possibility. For now, I just wanted to be able to store items in there, such as one liter water bottles, and not have them slide to the front. I can access the compartment from behind the stove as well. The stove is not difficult to remove and I have had to do that several times over the last few days to complete the galley.

I had the galley cabinetry disassembled for the past week while we applied six coats of varnish. It was boring and tedious but it is complete. I reinstalled it yesterday. It looks great. There is no substitute for real varnish. There is no way around the required sanding between every coat to keep it all smoth and level. I have seen "no sanding varnish" and it always shows the uneveness of the surface. I don't think "no sanding" varnish can compare to the real stuff, though it is less work. Anyway, I also varnished the vertical face of the book rack over the icebox/chart table. It was hard to get much else done though I did work on the cockpit coamings some. We only applied three coats of varnish to them because I'll need to install wood plugs in the countersunk holes through which the bolts are installed, and sand them smooth. I don't want two many coats of varnish on before I do that. I also applied grey Interlux BilgeKote under the stove where I previously installed the divider. I still need to install some wood plugs in the walnut trim around the sliding door and on the edge of the ash counter top. Later I say . . . keep moving forward.

High gloss varnish really brings light into what would otherwise be a dark interior.

I applied a coat of grey Interlux Bilge-Kote to the area under the stove.

We still have a lot of trim work to do.

Six coat of varnish to the shelfs.

Chart table-ice box.

I had not bedded the Groco IBVF seacock and tailpipe for the galley sink drain and I had a little time between projects. I also needed to enlarge the hole in the walnut cabin sole under the sink cabinet for the sitz drain hose and the water tank plumbing to pass through more cleanly. In order to accomplish those tasks I needed to remove the sink cabinet. Fortunately, removing the cabinet was a simple job and took all of ten minutes. This is one of those details that I think will, and already has, pay off in a big way--the cabinetry is easily removable thus vastly improving the ease of making repairs to the interior of the Far Reach or her systems. The sink counter top lifts off by removing some small trim pieces that serve as hold down cleats. Then, about 10 screws hold the panels in place and once they are removed the panels simple detach. I bedded the ball valve and hose barb and reassembled the cabinet.

I needed to remove the galley sink cabinet to bed the seacock and hose barb. It took about 10 minutes to take apart.

I temporarily installed african mahogany trim for the head sink. I cut a small caulking groove along the bottom edge. I'll remove the trim during the next varnishing session and then bed with mahogany colored polysulfied when I reinstall. I also installed the galley sink top and counter. It had just been sitting in position. I cut a small strip from some 1/8" thick silicon bronze, drilled the holes, heated it red, bent it 90 degrees, and installed it underneath on the port side of the sink. I used a self tapping screw to secure the vertical part into the ash cleat. But, I drilled and tapped into the corian for a 1/4" machine screw. On the other side of the sink, the cleat was wide enough that I drilled up through it, and tapped a hole in the corian. It's strong, clean, and was easy to do.

The african mahogany holds the sink counter in place. I cut a caulking groove along the bottom edge of the trim. I'll remove the trim for varnishing, then caulk when I reinstall.

I made the "L" bracket (top center of photo) from some scrap 1/8" thick silicon bronze.

The galley sink drain took a little work to sort out. Because I bought a standard sink, the drain assembly is larger than that often used on a boat. I found one that is SS and has a composite basket with threads for a tailpiece. I was able to find to two part female/female threaded PVC pipe coupling at Lowes. I screwed a male threaded nylon 1 1/2" hose barb to the coupling. I used the same Shields Wet/Dry Exhaust Hose for the drain tube that I used for the scupper line. I was able to get 6' of hose from Jamestown Distributors for about $40. They cut it and sent me just what I wanted. I previously checked with the local West Marine--I almost never buy anything from them as they are just to expensive. They wanted $13.99 a foot and I would have had to buy 12 feet! I don't know how West Marine stays in business.

Galley sink drain line.

I had been thinking about how we would use the awkward space below the galley sink. Between the toe-kick, sea-cock, underside of the sink, drain hose, and water line to the fresh water tap there is no easy solution. A full width shelf would have to be positioned high up to provide storage space for the trash can that Gayle decided she wanted under the sink. The drain hose would also limit the shelf space and of course anything put on the shelf would have to be secured so it would not slide around. The simplest and least invasive solution seemed to be to fabricate a deep box and bolt it to one of the bulkheads. All the normal below sink stuff would have a secure space to call home and access would be easy.

I installed the stroage box with 1/4" FH SS bolts. A small garbage can will fit to the right.

I applied the first coat of varnish cut 50 percent with mineral spirts to seal the wood.